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You will never forget a trip to Croatia. Visit the ancient city walls of Dubrovnik and spend lazy days relaxing on Croatia's stunning Dalmatian Coast . With crystal clear blue waters from the Adriatic Sea next to a breath-taking backdrop of a grey wall of mountains - it’s up to you whether you explore by land or enjoy a small-ship cruise. There are more wonderful cities waiting to be explored such as Split with its old town set in a Roman palace. While in the north of Croatia discover the fantastic capital, Zagreb and the beautiful coast and rolling hills of the Istrian Riviera. 

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A guide to the city of Zagreb, Croatia's intriguing capital

Croatia’s beguiling capital offers a heady mix of Western Balkan heritage, proud coffee culture and outdoor markets selling produce from the encircling Dinaric Alps.

Locals like to say Zagreb is a big town disguised as a small city. Its laid-back rhythm and leafy charm is apparent from the first moment visitors set out into the Croatian capital. Residents, up with the sun, make a beeline for outdoor markets to visit their trusted butchers and favoured vendors, whose produce — a rainbow of fruit and vegetables, just-baked cornbread, rows of fragrant honey — is largely drawn from the surrounding countryside. A diverse citizenry of designers, businesspeople, musicians, artists and catholic nuns pass each other on the main square, walking to their respective workplaces; people, young and old, gather on terraces for rakija (schnapps) and kava (super-strength coffee) at all hours. Early evening, families promenade city streets and piazzas to catch up with neighbours. It’s easy to believe you’ve just discovered the very essence of European life. Wedged into the Dinaric Alps, Zagreb is a two-hour drive from the Adriatic coast and it’s this remarkable geography that lends the city its unique character. The city’s strength comes from its amalgam of European sensibilities; a place where Mediterranean vibes and Slavic Continental climes combine. But such are the coastal riches of Croatia that its chief city — home to around 800,000 people — is often treated as a stopover for visitors on their way to the sea.   No matter. What lingering travellers quickly find is that this is a city that takes care of its own. Cafes spill across squares and streets, because Purgers (as folks from Zagreb call themselves) like to luxuriate over multi-hour, coffee-fuelled conversations. Museums and galleries display world-class collections to accommodate local tastes,   and the capital’s stages showcase productions for discerning native theatregoers. This isn’t a city that goes out of its way to cater for tourists, and it’s all the more beguiling for it. The key is for travellers to lean into the rhythms of local life. Stretching north from the Sava River to the foothills of the Dinaric Alps, Zagreb’s neighbourhoods offer eclectic rows of architecture from secessionist and neo-baroque to gothic brutalist and beyond. But it’s the proliferation of parks, gardens and leafy hills that dominate Zagreb’s landscape, coming into spectacular bloom in spring but hosts for festivals year-round. With its easy, natural charm Zagreb isn’t a city that tries hard to win visitors over — so it’s almost quite likely, therefore, that it will.

What to see and do

Green Horseshoe :   Take a sightseeing stroll from the 19th-century, neoclassical central train station, Glavni kolodvor, to   the main square, Ban Jelačić Square. From there, follow the aptly named ‘Green Horseshoe’ of parks and sites that wrap around Donji Grad, or Lower Town. As trams rumble by, you’ll pass the art deco Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, built in 1925 to accommodate Orient Express passengers. Next door, the Zagreb Botanical Garden and its 10,000 plant species provide a peaceful oasis. The last stretch takes you through Zrinjevac Park, for regular live music sessions in the bandstand, surrounded by vibrant flowerbeds. Zagreb Cathedral : It’s full name being the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the city’s top photo op stands on the spot where Zagreb was founded — an 11th-century bishopric known as Kaptol. Today’s neo-gothic cathedral — dating from 1880 — is the latest of several constructed over the ensuing millennium. It’s famed for its two 354ft spires, its goosebumps-inducing organ, with nearly 6,100 pipes, and for being the final resting place of beatified Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac.  

Upper Town : Historically, Zagreb’s hilltop Upper Town, Gradec, was the merchant yin to Kaptol’s religious yang. Today, Gradec’s medieval spirit endures as you walk its tangle of cobbled streets, where gas lamps are still hand-lit every evening. After passing through the district’s Stone Gate — the last of four original, 13th-century entrances — you’ll find the Croatian Parliament en route to the showstopper: St Mark’s Church. This architectural masterpiece — a mix of romanesque and gothic styles — contains exquisite sculptures and is topped by roof whose colourful tiles depict the coat of arms of Zagreb and the historic Kingdom of Croatia-Slavonia.  

Where to visit

Tkalčićeva Street : Or simply Tkalča, was once a creek dividing Kaptol and Gradec. These days, that waterway is a pedestrian-only promenade and the centre of Zagreb’s social scene. The row of two-storey, pastel-coloured buildings is an atmospheric place for a bite or a be — a backdrop for buskers, evening strollers, shoppers and lively social gatherings.  

Museums and galleries : The Museum of Contemporary Art, south of the river, is a celebration of multimedia installations, imagination and societal commentary via a 12,000-strong collection. Zagreb City Museum, set in the cavernous former 17th-century Convent of the Clares in the Upper Town, explores the city’s history from prehistory onwards, while the nearby Museum of Broken Relationships displays painful, sweet and humorous items   donated following failed romances.   Medvednica :   After getting to know the Croatian capital on foot, head up to 3,396ft Medvednica (‘bear mountain’) for clear-day views that stretch as far as Slovenia, Hungary and the Adriatic coast. One of Zagreb’s most seductive qualities is its proximity to open countryside, and this peak, in the north of the city, is one of the most accessible spots, its slopes (part of Medvednica Nature Park) offering scores of hikes for trekkers of all abilities.

How to live like a local

Špica: It seems the whole of Zagreb wakes early on Saturdays, flexes its collective fashion muscle and lounges at cafes in the centre to see and be seen. This weekend strut is known as špica. Pull on your best threads, take your špica waltz down Ilica Street, then duck into   Eli’s Caffe for the city’s best kava. Owner and roaster Nik Orosi has turned a cup of coffee into an art form.   Gric Tunnel : This protective measure, built during the Second World War, runs under the city centre and serves as an occasional art venue. Emerge from Art Park Entrance 1 (one of multiple access points), and you’ll come face to face with two city landmarks: the Zagreb Funicular, which connects Upper and Lower Towns, and the Lotrščak Tower, with its Grič cannon, which is fired daily at noon.   Croatian National Theatre : Zagreb is a city of theatregoers, who pack out its performance venues every night. A highlight is the 19th-century, neo-baroque Croatian National Theatre; anchoring the western arm of the Green Horseshoe, it stages drama, ballet and opera.

Where to shop

Croata :   Purgers are fashionable. Shop the look with hyper-local adornments like the necktie, invented in Croatia centuries ago and seen in adventurous iterations at this world renown emporium, which also stocks scarfs in unique designs.  

Dora : This boutique is located in Gradec, between the Stone Gate and St Mark’s Church. Owner Dora Rubić creates bespoke women’s clothing, with a focus on coats and dresses. Using natural fabrics such as cashmere and alpaca wool, she only produces around 200 pieces a year.   Outdoor Markets : To really shop local, visit Zagreb’s open-air markets. Climb the steps behind Ban Jelačić Square to reach Dolac Market, whose expanse of red umbrellas covers vendors selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, nuts, honey and liqueurs — accompanied by a cornucopia of local knowledge. Head west along Ilica Street to British Square, where, on Sunday mornings, antique dealers hawk everything from jewellery to Yugoslav memorabilia.  

Where to eat

Broom 44: Spilling onto   Dolac Market, this classic brunch spot seamlessly blends alternative cool with   old-school hospitality, and, most importantly, its homemade vegan and vegetarian food — served on plates   thrown by a local potter — is divine.   Dolac 8, 10000.

Lari & Penati : Lari & Penati takes generous liberties with its fusion of Croatian and US fare, created using ingredients from nearby Dolac Market — accompanied by a sterling wine list. It’s impossible to go wrong with this menu, especially the marinated sea bass salad and the barbecue spare ribs.   Dubravkin Put : A short walk away from the main square, this retreat of a restaurant in Tuškanac Forest Park offers exemplary Zagreb fine dining: rustic but refined and replete with Croatian produce including fine home-grown wines. Expect seafood and specialities such as tuna tartar and slow-cooked veal cheeks with a morel sauce, served on white linen-clad tables both inside and outside on the lovely, leafy terrace.

Where to drink

Bornstein : For Croatian wine connoisseurs, Bornstein is something of a pilgrimage. Opened in 1900, the country’s oldest wine shop is a few minutes north of the cathedral and one of the best places for cheese and wine pairings, wine flights and tastings featuring reds, whites and sparkling wines representing Croatia’s generous number of terroirs.   Kavkaz : Upmarket cocktail bar, Kavkaz is, for a certain generation of Purgers, an institution. Overlooking the Croatian National Theatre, this was once the cafe for the intelligentsia. Following a period of decline, a 2018 revamp saw it once again among Zagreb’s most atmospheric drinking spots, perfect for ordering a Hugo spritz (sparkling wine, elderflower syrup, lime, mint), and people-watching.   Kulturni Centar Mesnicka : With a constant rotation of music nights — jazz, hip-hop, blues, funk — and eclectic patrons, any rendezvous at this popular spot, next to the Grič Tunnel, is certain to be eventful. The bar serves a great selection of rakija, so it’s best to rule out any morning-after responsibilities.

Where to stay

Hotel President Pantovcak : A true boutique hotel, each of the 10 rooms at the four-star President is uniquely decorated with art — both modern and antique — while the elegant lounge and garden terrace would be worth a visit in their own right. It’s in a great location, too: a five-minute walk from British Square, 15 minutes from the main square.  

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel : Esplanade is not only a hotel but also a city symbol, a landmark that is very much a part of Zagreb’s historic fabric. Built to wow Orient Express passengers in the 1920s, this art deco five-star with more than 200 rooms has withstood the test of time, shifting fashions, and travel trends.  

Hotel Republika : Located near the city centre at the edge of Tuškanac Forest, Hotel Republika, with its seven spacious apartments, is a great base for exploring both the countryside and the city. Best of all, because the ‘aparthotel’ is owned by the Croatian Hunting Association, the in-house restaurant menu includes scrumptious venison and boar dishes.  

Getting there & around From London, nonstop flights to Zagreb are offered by British Airways , Croatia Airlines , and Ryanair (the latter also flies from Manchester). Several European carriers fly from UK airports via their respective European hubs.    

Average flight time: 2h15m.

Compact and clearly laid out, walking or cycling is the best way to get around Zagreb. Like many things in the Croatian capital, bike hire is a bargain for most foreign visitors, as are guided tours: the 2.5-hour Zagreb Highlights itinerary with Blue Bike Zagreb costs from £33 per person.  

Trams are a great option for longer trips across the city: 4 kuna/£0.45 one-way. Bolt and Uber provide inexpensive taxi services to and from the airport and across the city.    

When to go With mild temperatures, Zagreb is an excellent choice year-round. April to June and September to November may be best for weather (averaging around 20C), but the city throws a wonderful Advent festival from December to January. Summer — often empty, as many locals head to the coast — has a relaxed, city-to-yourself beauty, although some businesses may be closed. infozagreb.hr/events

More Info Zagreb Tourist Board Visit Zagreb

How to do it British Airways Holidays offers two nights, room-only, at the Canopy by Hilton Zagreb City Centre, including flights, from £149.  

Published in the May 2022 issue of   National Geographic Traveller (UK)

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Zagreb travel tips: where to go and what to see in 48 hours

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There’s more to Croatia than the coast – its medieval capital is crammed with cultural curiosities and green spaces that salute summer.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Why go now?

It is now 20 years since Croatia emerged from Yugoslavia, and its war of independence, as a fully fledged state. However, you will not hear many echoes of conflict in its capital.

Zagreb is small but defiantly arty. Make a trip in the next few weeks and you will have time to catch “Rodin in Mestrovich’s Zagreb” (until 20 September; 50 Croatian kuna/£5) – a touring show of the French sculptor’s work (including models of The Thinker and The Kiss) at the Umjetnicki Paviljon (1), an ornate building, created as an exhibition space in 1898 (open daily 11am to 7pm, Sunday 10am to 1pm, closed Monday (Trg Tomislava 22; 00 385 1 4841 070 umjetnicki-paviljon.hr ). And who was Ivan Mestrovich? See “Cultural afternoon” opposite.

Zagreb’s airport is 12 miles south-east of the centre in the suburb of Plesa. It welcomes two direct flights from the UK daily – British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com ) and Croatia Airlines (0844 371 0310; croatiaairlines.com ), both from Heathrow. A shuttle bus service (00 385 1 633 1999; plesoprijevoz.hr ; K30/£3) cuts a 30-minute dash into town – daily, every half an hour, 4.30am to 8.30pm, stopping at the central bus station (2) on Avenida Marina Drzica. Depending on traffic, taxis take 20 minutes and cost K200 (£20).

Get your bearings

Set in the north of the Croatia – far closer to Slovenia’s capital, Ljubljana (87 miles away), than its compatriot Dubrovnik (310 miles) – Zagreb is a pretty prospect, framed by Mount Medvednica, which rises to 3396ft directly to the north. It is still visibly medieval in the narrow lanes which infuse Gornji Grad, its “Upper Town” and historic core.

Donji Grad (“Lower Town”), immediately to the south, was laid out in the 19th century, and has some of the best restaurants. Novi (New) Zagreb, further south, across the River Sava, is defined by drab Cold War-era housing, but is worthy of a visit – it can be reached via three of the 17 tram routes that, along with buses, comprise the city’s transport network (00 385 60 100 001; zet.hr ; singles K10/£1, one-day pass K30/£3). The tourist office (3) is on the main square at Trg Jelacica 11 (00 385 1 481 4051; zagreb- touristinfo.hr ). Until the end of October, it is open daily from 8.30am to 9pm (Sunday, 9am to 6pm). Further information at croatia.hr .

A sturdy four-star which has occupied its central address at Petrinjska 71 since 1932, the Hotel Astoria (4) (00 385 1 480 8900; hotelastoria.hr ) has double rooms for K739 (£74), with breakfast.

Tucked just north-west of the centre at Pantovcak 52, Hotel President Pantovcak (5) (00 385 1 488 1480; president-zagreb.com ) is a boutique option with floor-to-ceiling windows, a quiet garden and doubles for €119.

The Esplanade (6), at Mihanoviceva 1 (00 385 1 456 6666; esplanade.hr ), is Zagreb’s grandest retreat – a fabulous five-star dating back to 1925. Doubles start at €127, room only.

Take a hike

Start in Gornji Grad, at Croatia’s tallest building, Zagreb Cathedral (7) whose twin towers rise to 354ft (Kaptol 31; 00 385 1 481 4727; glas-koncila.hr ). Although heavily rebuilt after an earthquake in 1880, this 13th-century wonder is majestic, open daily 10am to 5pm, from 1pm on Sundays (five services every Sunday morning).

Follow Kaptol due west into Dolac (8), the city’s main market square – the venue for a daily (weekdays 6.30am to 3pm; Saturday to 2pm, Sunday to 1pm) feast on local olive oils, honey and cheeses (as it has been since 1926).

Leave to the south via Splavnica, cross Jelacica, turn right on to Ilica (the key retail stretch) and take the second right, Tomiceva. Here, the Zagreb Uspinjaca (9), which is part of the public transport system and runs every 10 minutes (daily 6pm to 9pm; K4/40p) is a funicular which has climbed its 216 feet of track since 1890. At the top, the promenade of Strossmayerovo Setaliste (10) offers splendid city views.

Window shopping

Zagreb has a range of intriguing stores. Alongside the funicular, at Tomiceva 4, Take Me Home (11) (00 385 1 798 7632; takemehome.hr ) is a design shop selling inventive children’s toys and quirky lamps. Crop (12), at 28 on the bar strip of Tkalciceva (00 385 91 533 8233; crop.com.hr ), revels in Croatian wines and organic goods. Horvath (13), at Gaja 27 (00 385 1 487 3029; horvath-galerija.hr ) is a little gallery selling pieces by Croatian painters such as Zilic Davor and Malovec Hrvoje.

And if you have not yet had your fill of food stalls, then the vegetable market in Britanski Trg (14) (British Square) may well appeal. It’s open daily from 7am to noon, except on Sunday (8am to 2pm), when it becomes an antique fair.

Lunch on the run

Restoran Pod Grickim Topom (15), at Zakmardijeve Stube 5 (00 385 1 483 3607; restoran-pod-grickim-topom.hr ), serves a tasty sole fillet cooked in white wine for K150 (£15).

Cultural afternoon

Zagreb is full of museums. The Musej Mimara (16), at Rooseveltov Trg 5 (00 385 1 482 8100; mimara.hr ; K40/£4), is its prime art showcase, with glories by Veronese, Van Dyck and Renoir. Its summer hours (until the end of September) see it open daily from 10am to 7pm (Saturdays to 5pm, Sundays to 2pm, closed Mondays). The Moderna Galerija (17), at Hebrangova 1, focuses on Croatian art of the 19th and 20th century, with works by Zlatko Bourek and Milan Steiner – (00 385 1 604 1040; moderna-galerija.hr ; K40/£4). Open weekdays from 11am to 7pm, closed Mondays, open weekends to 2pm.

The Atelijer Mestrovich (18), at Mletacka 8 (00 385 1 485 1123; mestrovic.hr ; K30/£3), toasts the sculptures of Mestrovich, “the Croatian Rodin”, open daily 11am to 7pm, except Saturday and Sunday (to 2pm) and Monday (closed).

An aperitif

Donji Grad has a clutch of great places to drink on Bogoviceva. Vinyl Bar (19), at No 3, proffers a range of Croatian wines from K20 (£2) a glass (00 385 1 563 5483; vinylzagreb.com ).

Dining with the locals

Also in Donji Grad, at Nikole Tesle 14, Ristorante Carpaccio (20) serves slivers of swordfish for K98/£9.80 (00 385 1 482 2331; ristorantecarpaccio.hr ). Fajn (21), at Vranyczanyeva 6 (00 385 1 4851411; fajnbistro.com.hr ), is a Gornji Grad gourmet jewel with gnudi (small soft dumplings) with goat’s cheese and tomato (K70/£7). At the Esplanade (6) Le Bistro has haute cuisine with exotic touches such as monkfish with coconut and curry sauce (K145/£14.50).

Sunday morning: go to church

While the Cathedral (7) dominates Gornji Grad, Crkva Sv Marka (St Mark’s) (22) is a hugely photogenic 13th-century church at Trg Sv Marka 5 (00 385 1 485 1611), with coloured tiles adorning its roof and forming the coats of arms of Zagreb and Croatia. Inside you’ll find Mestrovich sculptures (open during services – weekdays 7.30am and 6pm, Saturday at 7.30am, Sunday at 10am, 11am, 6pm).

Take a ride

Pick up tram No 6 (for “Sopot”) in Jelacica square (3) and ride six stops south, into Novi Zagreb. Here, dive into the Musej Suvrememe Umjetnosti (23) at Avenida Dubrovnik 17. The Museum of Contemporary Art (00 385 1 605 2700; msu.hr ; K30/£3) opened in 2009 and has added a dab of culture to an unremarkable area. It is a striking edifice of glass and concrete with 12,000 exhibits including art by such Croatian visionaries as Milivoj Uzelac and Josip Seissel (open daily 11am to 6pm, Saturday to 8pm, closed Mondays). Continue your ride on one of artist Carsten Höller’s distinctive steel art-slides.

Out to brunch

The museum has a restaurant where you can take a break from all the dynamic visuals with something mildly less challenging, like a sizeable salad for K70 (£7).

A walk in the park

Park Ribnjak (24) injects a dose of open space into the tight alleys of Gornji Grad. The city’s fortifications ran this way in the 15th century and you can still see wall fragments. Park Zrinjevac (25) (Trg Nikole Subica Zrinskog) is the loveliest element of the “Zelena Potkova” (“Green Horseshoe”) fringing Donji Grad. An 1891 pavilion at its heart stages free summer concerts.

Icing on the cake

Zagreb’s most alluring attraction may be the Museum of Broken Relationships (26), at Sv Cirilac Metoda 2 (00 385 1 485 1021; brokenships.com ; K25/£2.50). It was opened in 2010 by a couple whose own bliss had foundered, and is now a repository for totems of defunct romance such as the champagne cork that would have saluted a wedding had the bride not found her fiancé cheating, or the basketball, subtitled, simply, “he was a player”. The museum (open daily, 9am to 10.30pm) has a café where you can sip an espresso for K8 (80p), or a bottle of wine for K100 (£10).

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The Croatian capital, Zagreb, is very much Central Europe’s surprise package, a preconception-challenging city that combines the gritty urban culture of northern Europe with the laidback manners of the Mediterranean south. It has always been a somewhat more arty, quirky and creative place than its tourist-deluged cousins on Croatia’s coast – it’s just that Adriatic-bound travellers never paid it enough attention until now. Always home to a thriving scene of alternative music, edgy fashions and addictively eccentric bars, Zagreb is currently enjoying something of a moment, with a sudden increase in the number of things that make a city really purr, including more good places to eat and a festival-driven sense that things are happening in the arts. The relative absence of international franchises in the centre (and the ubiquity of small cafés serving good strong coffee) make Zagreb something of a collector’s item among connoisseurs of Central European authenticity, a city pursuing its own, idiosyncratic path.

Brief history of Zagreb

Accommodation in zagreb, where to eat in zagreb, drinking in zagreb, nightlife and entertainment in zagreb, shopping in zagreb, trg bana jelacica and around.

• Zagreb's Lower Town
• Zagreb's Suburbs

Mount Medvednica

Although capital of an independent Croatia only since 1991, Zagreb has served as the cultural and political focus of the nation since the Middle Ages. The city grew out of two medieval communities, Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west, each sited on a hill and divided by a (long since dried up) river. Zagreb grew rapidly in the nineteenth century, and many of the city’s buildings are well-preserved, peach-coloured monuments to the self-esteem of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Nowadays, with a population reaching almost one million, the city is the boisterous capital of a turbulent, changing nation. A number of good museums and a varied nightlife ensure that a few days here will be well spent.

Just one word of advice: don’t expect too much excitement in August, when locals head for the coast and the whole city seems to indulge in a month-long siesta.

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Despite evidence of Iron Age settlements on top of Gradec hill, the history of Zagreb doesn’t really start until 1094, when Ladislas I of Hungary established a bishopric here in order to bring the northern Croatian lands under tighter Hungarian control. A large ecclesiastical community grew up around the cathedral and its girdle of episcopal buildings on Kaptol (which roughly translates as “cathedral chapter”), while the Hungarian Crown retained a garrison opposite on Gradec. Following the Mongol incursions of 1240–42, King Bela IV declared Gradec a royal free town in order to attract settlers and regenerate urban life.

The communities of Kaptol and Gradec rarely got on – control of the watermills on the river dividing them was a constant source of enmity. The biggest outbreak of intercommunal fighting occurred in 1527, culminating in the sacking of Kaptol by the Habsburgs – who were now in control of Croatian lands. Henceforth the separate identities of Kaptol and Gradec began to disappear, and the name Zagreb (meaning, literally, “behind the hill” – a reference to the town’s position at the foot of Mount Medvednica) entered popular usage as a collective name for both.

Under the Habsburgs

By the end of the sixteenth century the Ottoman Empire was in control of much of Croatia, reducing the country to a northern enclave with Zagreb at its centre. Despite hosting sessions of the (largely ceremonial) Croatian parliament, Zagreb increasingly became a provincial outpost of the Habsburg Empire, and the Croatian language was displaced by German, Hungarian and Latin. It wasn’t until the mid-nineteenth century that the growth of a Croatian national consciousness confirmed Zagreb’s status as guardian of national culture. The establishment of an academy of arts and sciences (1866), a university (1874) and a national theatre (1890) gave the city a growing sense of cultural identity, although ironically it was a German, the architect Hermann Bollé (1845–1926), creator of the School of Arts and Crafts, Mirogoj Cemetery and Zagreb Cathedral, who contributed most to the city’s visual profile.

Yugoslavia into the present

With the creation of Yugoslavia in 1918, political power shifted from Vienna to Belgrade – a city that most Croats considered an underdeveloped Balkan backwater. Things improved significantly after World War II, when Croatia was given the status of a socialist republic and Zagreb became the seat of its government. A major period of architectural change came in the 1950s and 1960s, when ambitious mayor Većeslav Holjevac presided over the city’s southward expansion, and the vast concrete residential complexes of Novi Zagreb were born. The city survived the collapse of Yugoslavia relatively unscathed, despite being hit by sporadic Serbian rocket attacks.

Zagreb has fared much better than many Croatian cities in the slump-boom-slump cycle that has characterized the post-independence economy. As well as being the commercial capital of the country it is also the undisputed centre of cultural life, boasting the kind of concert seasons, venues and arts festivals that most other Croatian municipalities would die for.

While Zagreb is well served with medium- and top-range hotels, budget choices are relatively thin on the ground and should be reserved well in advance. There is a growing number of backpacker hostels, many of which offer private double rooms as well as bunk beds in dorms. Zagreb tourist office has a list of locals offering private rooms or apartments in the city centre.

Once rather conservative in culinary terms, Zagreb is now brimming with bistros and restaurants that mix the best in Croatian grilled meats and fish with a growing enthusiasm for experimentation and fusion. Cafés are absolutely everywhere, and although most of them only serve drinks, an increasing number offer light meals, cakes and ice cream. For snacks, there are a good number of bakeries and sandwich bars in the central area, while picnic supplies can be purchased from the stalls of Dolac market, just above the main Trg bana Jelačića.

There’s a wealth of café-bars with outdoor seating in central Zagreb, especially in the pedestrianized section around Bogovićeva and Preradovićev trg. The other main strolling district is Tkalčićeva, just north of Trg bana Jelačića, which, with a watering hole every few metres, takes on the appearance of a vast outdoor bar on summer evenings. Saturday morning is the traditional time for meeting friends and lingering over a coffee, although downtown areas remain busy day and night, seven days a week, if the weather is good enough for alfresco drinking. Larger cafés may offer a range of pastries, ice creams and cakes, but the smaller establishments focus squarely on drinking – so don’t expect to find much in the way of food.

Zagreb offers the rich and varied diet of entertainment that you would expect from a metropolis of one million people. There’s a regular diet of classical music, theatre and club culture throughout the year, and top international performers are increasingly drawn to the city’s ever-expanding range of high-profile festivals. Note that arts events tend to thin out in July and August, when there’s more in the way of cultural activity on the coast. Extensive entertainment listings appear in the free monthly English-language pamphlet Events and Performances, available from the Zagreb tourist office.

Clubs and live music

Zagreb is one of Central Europe’s liveliest cities when it comes to DJ-driven club music and live alternative rock. Most activity takes place during the student year (roughly late Sept to late June), and most clubs take a summer break in July and August. Clubs are not necessarily open every night of the week, so check websites or ask around before heading out to the less central ones. Gig listings are available on last.fm and muzika.hr . Admission charges for clubs and gigs range between 30Kn and 80Kn – more for big events.

Zagreb festivals

Zagreb’s impressive menu of cultural events includes a range of festivals that attract prestigious international participants. Most of these have their own websites; otherwise, advance information can be obtained from the Zagreb tourist office .

• Zagrebdox - Late February/early March. Impressive survey of international documentary films a week of screenings in venues across the city.
• Subversive Film Festival - April or May. Not just a film festival but also a series of discussions and debates focusing on left/radical issues; it tends to attract big international names.
• Festival of the European Short Story (Festival Evropske kratke priče) - Late May/early June. Readings, panel discussions and drink-fuelled party evenings involving top authors from Croatia and abroad. Some readings are in English; others come with big-screen English translation.
• Contemporary Dance Week (Tjedan suvremenog plesa) - May/June. Varied, often challenging programme of modern choreography from around the globe, held in various venues across the city.
• Cest is de best - Late May/early June. Week-long festival of street performers augmented by a big range of live music, taking place on outdoor stages positioned throughout the city centre.
• Animafest - June. Zagreb was a major centre of animated film in the 1950s and Animafest helps to put the city back on the map, with a review of the year’s best animation from Croatia and abroad.
• Strossmartre (Ljeto na Strosu) - Late May to early Sept. Season of open-air concerts and events in Zagreb’s Upper Town, with nightly happenings all summer long.
• InMusic - Late June. Three-day rock-and-pop fest on the shores of Lake Jarun with three stages, early-morning DJ tents and plenty of food and drink. Guests in recent years have included Kraftwerk, Franz Ferdinand, Arcade Fire and many more. Camping available.
• Fantastic Zagreb - Late June/early July. Fantasy, sci-fi, noir and cult trash cinema, celebrated with screenings in outdoor locations.
• Dan D (“D Day”) - July. Weekend-long design festival with stalls, shows and DJ events, usually held in one of Zagreb’s numerous semi-deserted postindustrial spaces.
• Courtyards (Dvorišta) - July. The semi-hidden courtyard spaces of the Upper Town are opened up to the public in a ten-day festival of live music, wine and food.
• International Festival of Puppet Theatre (Međunarodni festival kazališta lutaka) - Sept. A great chance to catch some of the best puppet productions from all over Central and Eastern Europe, with shows for both kids and adults.
• World Theatre Festival (Festival svjetskog kazališta) - mid-Sept. Big names in international contemporary drama.
• Zagreb Film Festival - October. Initiated in 2003 and attracting outstanding documentaries and art movies from around the world.

You can find international brands aplenty in the brash suburban shopping malls girdling the city, but the real pleasure of retail culture in Zagreb lies in trawling the markets, with fresh food at Dolac, bric-a-brac at Britanski trg and flea-junk at Hrelić. In addition, the alleys and courtyards around Ilica, Radićeva and Tkalčićeva harbour all manner of craft stores, jewellery shops and kooky designer boutiques.

A broad, flagstoned expanse flanked by cafés and hectic with the whizz of trams and hurrying pedestrians, Trg bana Jelačića (Governor Jelačić Square) is as good a place as any to start exploring the city, and is within easy walking distance of more or less everything you’ll want to see. It’s also the biggest tram stop in Zagreb, standing at the intersection of seven cross-town routes, and the place where half the city seems to meet in the evening – either beneath the ugly clock mounted on metal stilts on the western side of the square, or right on the corner of the square and Gajeva (a corner colloquially known as “Krleža” after the bookshop that once stood here).

At the square’s centre is the attention-hogging equestrian statue of the nineteenth-century Ban of Croatia, Josip Jelačić, completed in 1866 by the Viennese sculptor Fernkorn just as the Habsburg authorities were beginning to erode the semi-autonomy which Jelačić had won for the nation. The square was renamed Trg republike in 1945 and the statue – considered a potential rallying point for Croatian nationalism – was dismantled on the night of July 25, 1947. Its constituent parts were stored away in a basement until 1990, when it was restored to its rightful place – although the statue now faces in a different direction to that intended. Originally positioned with Jelačić’s drawn sabre pointing north (a gesture of defiance to the Austro-Hungarian imperial order), it now points southwards, as if to emphasize the historic rupture between Croatia and her Balkan neighbours.

Cvjetni trg

Throbbing heart of Zagreb’s pavement-café culture, pedestrianized Preradovićev trg, is referred to by most locals as Cvjetni trg (Flower Square), after the flower market that used to be held here until the area was cleaned up in the 1980s – a few sanitized florists’ pavilions still survive. Watching over the scene is Ivan Rendić’s 1895 statue of Petar Preradović (1818–72), a general in the Austro-Hungarian army who wrote some of the Croatian language’s most evocative romantic poetry. Behind the statue rises the grey form of the Serbian Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna crkva), an unassuming nineteenth-century building whose candlelit, icon-filled interior, heavy with the smell of incense, is worth a quick peek. Cvijetni trg’s coffee-drinking culture extends eastwards along Bogovićeva, the animated pedestrianized street boasting an unbroken strip of café terraces.

Arguably the prettiest single street in the city, pedestrianized Tkalčićeva preserves a neat ensemble of the one- and two-storey, steep-roofed nineteenth-century houses that have largely disappeared elsewhere. Most of the street’s low-ceilinged mansions are now occupied by the youthful café-bars that have transformed Tkalčićeva into one of the city’s prime drinking areas. In the first half of the twentieth century the whole area had a somewhat darker reputation, when Kožarska, the alleyway which runs parallel to Tkalčićeva to the west, served as the city’s red-light district, “reeking of debauchery, adultery, crime, drunkenness, and promiscuity”, in the words of diarist and novelist Miroslav Krleža. It was so popular with Hitler’s soldiers in World War II that the city authorities had to put up signs in German banning military personnel from entering. Also leading off to the west of Tkalčićeva is Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge” – a reminder of the often violent disputes between Gradec and Kaptol), a street that links up with Radićeva, offering a short cut up to Gradec.

The Grounded Sun and Nine Views

Presiding mutely over the pavement cafés of Bogovićeva is the Grounded Sun (Prizemljeno sunce), a bronze sphere created by sculptor Ivan Kožarić in 1971 and placed here in 1994. Despite being tarnished by the elements and covered with graffiti, it remains one of Zagreb’s best-loved pieces of public art. In the mid-2000s conceptual artist Davor Preis decided to supply Kožarić’s sun with an accompanying installation entitled Nine Views, with metal spheres symbolizing the nine planets placed throughout Zagreb at distances that are in exact proportion to those of the real solar system. Thus Mercury appears as a tiny metal ball attached to the wall of a building at Margaretska 3, while Venus (Trg bana Jelačića 3), Earth (Varšavska 9) and Mars (Tkalčićeva 25) appear equally insignificant. The remaining planets are much further out in areas of Zagreb that you wouldn’t normally ever want to visit – culminating with Pluto, in a pedestrian underpass beneath the highway to Samobor. That said, tracing the solar system has become a highly popular form of urban safari – consult Zagreb tourist office or Preis’s own website ( daworp.com ) for further details.

Occupying a large terrace overlooking Trg bana Jelačića is Dolac, the city’s principal market. This feast of fruit, vegetables and meat is held every morning, but is at its liveliest on Thursdays and Fridays, when fresh Adriatic fish bring extra colour to the seafood pavilion. Indoor market halls lie underneath the main outdoor section, with stalls selling all manner of bread, sausages, cured hams and cheeses.

Northeast of Trg bana Jelačića, the filigree spires of Zagreb’s cathedral mark the edge of the district known as Kaptol, home to the city’s Catholic institutions and still patrolled by pious citizens and nuns of various orders. The area consists of little more than one long street – initially called Kaptol, later becoming Nova ves in its northern reaches – and the cathedral itself ( katedrala ), at its southern end, the district’s only arresting feature. Ringed by ivy-cloaked turrets, the cathedral is almost wholly neo-Gothic, having been rebuilt by Viennese architects Friedrich von Schmidt and Hermann Bollé after a catastrophic earthquake in 1880. Most of the money and creative endeavour were invested in the two spires, the big architectural statement it was felt a growing city like Zagreb needed.

Gradec (or more colloquially “Grič”) is the oldest and most atmospheric part of Zagreb, a leafy, tranquil area of tiny streets, small squares and Baroque palaces, whose mottled brown roofs peek out from the hill. The most leisurely approach is to take the funicular (uspinjača), which ascends from Tomićeva, an alleyway about 200m west of Trg bana Jelačića; alternatively, wander up the gentle gradient of Radićeva towards the Kamenita vrata, or “stone gate”, which originally formed the main eastern entrance to the town. Inside Kamenita vrata – actually more of a long curving tunnel than a gate – lies one of Zagreb’s most popular shrines, a simple sixteenth-century statue of the Virgin in a grille-covered niche. Miraculous powers have been attributed to the statue, largely on account of its surviving a fire in 1731 – a couple of benches inside the gate accommodate passing city folk eager to offer a quick prayer.

Museum of Broken Relationships

For a voyage into the more tumescent recesses of the human psyche then there are few better starting points than Zagreb’s Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza), the celebrated art installation that became a permanently grounded museum in 2010. It started out as an exhibit at the Zagreb Salon of 2006, at which co-creators Olinka Vištica and Dražen Grubišić (themselves a former item) displayed a collection of objects connected with all aspects of break-up, many of which were donated by friends with a story to tell. The exhibit struck an instant chord with the public, and became an international travelling exhibition, adding to its collection as more and more people donated meaningful mementoes.

Now located on the ground floor of Gradec’s Kulmer Palace, it’s a compelling and unique museum of wistful memory and raw emotion. Each exhibit is accompanied by a text explaining why it was significant to the donor – some are touching, others quite kinky, and a few belong to the obsessive world of a David Lynch movie. The broken relationships in question aren’t always what one expects; one member of the public donated the hands of his favourite mannequin, another an oil painting of a politician who failed to deliver. Among the most poignant exhibits is a comic book purchased after a particular break-up – because the ex-boyfriend in question had departed leaving nothing to be remembered by.

It is also one of the few Zagreb museums that has a genuinely cute café and a well-patronized shop: Bad Memory Eraser pencil rubbers are among the big sellers.

Zagreb's Lower Town

South of the Upper Town, the modern Lower Town (Donji grad) is a bit of a sprawl, with grey office blocks and apartment buildings surrounding the occasional example of imposing Habsburg-era architecture. Breaking the urban uniformity is a series of interconnected garden squares, laid out from the 1870s onwards, which gives the downtown area a U-shaped succession of promenading areas and parks. Known as Lenuci’s Horseshoe (Lenucijeva podkova) after Milan Lenuci, the city planner responsible for its layout, this was a deliberate attempt to give Zagreb a distinctive urban identity, providing it with public spaces bordered by the set-piece institutions – galleries, museums and theatres – that it was thought every modern city should have. The horseshoe was never finished, though, and it’s unlikely you’ll follow the full U-shaped itinerary intended by Lenuci. The first of the horseshoe’s two main series of squares starts with Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog – usually referred to as Zrinjevac – which begins a block south of Trg bana Jelačića; to the west of Zrinjevac is the second line of squares, culminating with Trg maršala Tita. To the south are the Botanical Gardens , which were intended to provide the final green link between the two arms of the horseshoe, but didn’t quite manage it: several characterless downtown blocks prevent it from joining Tomislavov trg to the east.

Nikola Tesla (1856–1943)

Born the son of a Serbian Orthodox priest in the village of Smiljan, just outside Gospić, Nikola Tesla went on to become the Leonardo da Vinci of the electronic age. He studied in Graz and Prague before working for telephone companies in Budapest and Paris, and in 1884 emigrated to the US where he found work with Thomas Edison – the pair allegedly fell out when Edison promised to reward Tesla with a US$50,000 bonus for improving his electricity generators, then failed to pay up.

After working for a time as a manual labourer, Tesla set up his own company and dedicated himself to the development of alternating current – a system that is now standard throughout the world. With financial support from American company Westinghouse, Tesla demonstrated his innovations at the Chicago World Fair in 1893, becoming an international celebrity in the process.

In 1899 Tesla moved to Colorado Springs, where he built an enormous high-frequency generator (the “Tesla Coil”), with which he hoped to transmit electric energy in huge waves around the earth. Photographs of Tesla’s tall, wiry figure using the coil to produce vast electronic discharges helped turn the inventor into one of the iconic figures of modern science.

Tesla also pioneered the development of long-range radio-wave transmissions, but failed to demonstrate his innovations publicly and was scooped by Giuglielmo Marconi, who successfully sent wireless messages across the Atlantic in 1902. The US patent office credited Marconi as the inventor of radio – a decision overturned in Tesla’s favour in 1943.

Official recognition eluded Tesla throughout his career. In 1915 the Nobel committee considered awarding their science prize jointly to Tesla and Thomas Edison, but changed their minds on discovering that the pair were too vain to share it. Tesla’s failure to capitalize on his inventions owed a lot to his secretive nature. His habit of announcing discoveries without providing any supporting evidence led many to see him as a crank. He claimed to have received signals from outer space, and to be working on an “egeodynamic oscillator”, whose vibrations would be enough to destroy large buildings. On Tesla’s death in 1943, the FBI confiscated the scientist’s papers, prompting all kinds of speculation about the secret weapons that Tesla may or may not have been working on.

Tesla remains the subject of fascination for Croats and Serbs alike (he is one of the few historical figures whose legacy they share), and Tesla-related museum displays in Zagreb, Belgrade and his home village of Smiljan are becoming ever more popular.

Zagreb's Suburbs

Zagreb’s sightseeing potential is largely exhausted once you’ve covered the compact centre, although there are a few worthwhile trips into the suburbs – all of which are easily accessible by tram or bus. Maksimir, Jarun and Mirogoj cemetery are the park-like expanses to aim for if you want a break from the downtown streets, while the Sava river embankment presents the ideal excuse for a long afternoon stroll. South of the river, the residential high-rise sprawl of Novi Zagreb is home to the city’s coolest cultural attraction – the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Maksimir Park

Three kilometres east of the centre, Maksimir Park is Zagreb’s largest and lushest open space. Named after Archbishop Maximilian Vrhovac, who in 1774 established a small public garden in the southwestern corner of today’s park, Maksimir owes much to his successors Aleksandar Alagović and Juraj Haulik, who imported the idea of the landscaped country park from England. It’s perfect for aimless strolling, with the straight-as-an-arrow, tree-lined avenues at its southwestern end giving way to more densely forested areas in its northern reaches. As well as five lakes, the park is dotted with follies, including a mock Swiss chalet (Švicarska kuća) and a spruced-up belvedere (vidikovac), housing a café which gets mobbed on fine Sunday afternoons. One of Zagreb’s best-equipped children’s play parks can be found here, about five minutes’ walk from the main entrance, just off the main avenue to the left.

The Lauba House

Cloaked in a sheath of matt black on the outside, and boasting a wealth of wrought iron and exposed brickwork within, the expensively restored former cavalry stable and textile factory that is the Lauba House (Kuća Lauba), 4km west of the centre, is Zagreb’s leading private art collection. It’s the brainchild of Tomislav Kličko (the name “lauba” is local dialect in Kličko’s home village for a circle of tree branches), who systematically bought up the works of Croatia’s leading artists at a time when few other individuals were making acquisitions. Unsurprisingly, Kličko ended up with the cream. Occupying centre stage in a regularly rotated collection are the figurative paintings of Lovro Artuković, light installations by Ivana Franke and the glitzy but disturbing sculptures and photographs of Kristian Kožul.

On sunny days, city folk head out to Jarun, a 2km-long artificial lake encircled by footpaths and cycling tracks 6km southwest of the centre. Created to coincide with Zagreb’s hosting of the 1987 World Student Games, it’s an important venue for rowing competitions, with a large spectator stand at the western end, although most people come here simply to stroll or sunbathe. The best spot for the latter is Malo jarunsko jezero at Jarun’s eastern end, a bay sheltered from the rest of the lake by a long thin island. Here you’ll find a shingle beach backed by outdoor cafés, several of which remain open until the early hours. This is a good place from which to clamber up onto the dyke that runs along the banks of the River Sava, providing a good vantage point from which to survey the cityscape of Novi Zagreb beyond.

Novi Zagreb

Spread over the plain on the southern side of the River Sava, Novi Zagreb (New Zagreb) is a vast gridiron of housing projects and multilane highways, conceived by ambitious urban planners in the 1960s. The central part of the district is not that bad a place to live: swaths of park help to break up the architectural monotony, and each residential block has a clutch of bars and pizzerias in which to hang out. Outlying areas have far fewer facilities, however, and possess the aura of half-forgotten dormitory settlements on which the rest of Zagreb has turned its back.

The Museum of Contemporary Art

Opened to the public in 2009, the Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) has established itself as the leading art institution in the region. Taking the form of an angular wave on concrete stilts, the Igor Franić-designed building is a deliberate reference to the meandering motif developed by Croatian abstract artist Julije Knifer (1924–2004) and repeated – with minor variations – in almost all of his paintings. The interior is a bit of a meander too, with open-plan exhibition halls and a frequently rotated permanent collection that highlights home-grown movements without presenting them in chronological order. The whole thing demonstrates just how far at the front of the contemporary pack Croatian art always was, although it’s a difficult story for first-time visitors to unravel.

Things you should look out for include the jazzy abstract paintings produced by Exat 51 (a group comprising Vlado Kristl, Ivan Picelj and Aleksandar Srnec) in the 1950s, which show how postwar Croatian artists escaped early from communist cultural dictates and established themselves firmly at the forefront of the avant-garde. Look out too for photos of it’s-all-in-the-name-of-art streakers such as Tomislav Gotovac (1937–2010) and Vlasta Delimar (1956–), who either ran or rode naked through the centre of Zagreb on various occasions, putting Croatia on the international performance-art map in the process. Works by understated iconoclasts Goran Trbuljak, Sanja Iveković and Mladen Stilinović reinforce Croatia’s reputation for the art of the witty, ironic statement. The museum’s international collection takes in Mirosław Bałka’s Eyes of Purification (a mysterious concrete shed outside the front entrance), as well as Carsten Höller’s interactive toboggan tubes. A cinema, concert space and café provide additional reasons to visit.

Novi Zagreb has its own venue for outdoor recreation in the shape of the Bundek, a kidney-shaped lake surrounded by woodland and riverside meadow. Attractively landscaped and bestowed with foot- and cycle-paths, it’s an increasingly popular strolling and picnicking venue. Indeed Bundek is one of the best bets for keeping children entertained, with large, well-equipped children's play parks at either side of the lake. The area is also enormously popular with picnickers at weekends, thanks to the generous supply of light-your-own-fire barbecue stations spread out beneath the trees.

The wooded slopes of Mount Medvednica, or “Bear Mountain”, offer the easiest escape from the city, with the range’s highest peak, Sljeme (1033m), easily accessible on foot or by road. The summit is densely forested and the views from the top are not as impressive as you might expect, but the walking is good and there’s a limited amount of skiing in winter, when you can rent gear from shacks near the top.

Commanding a spur of the mountain southwest of the Sljeme summit is the fortress of Medvedgrad. It was built in the mid-thirteenth century at the instigation of Pope Innocent IV in the wake of Tatar attacks, although its defensive capabilities were never really tested and it was abandoned in 1571. Partially reconstructed, the fortress has since the 1990s been home to the Altar of the Homeland (Oltar domovine), an eternal flame surrounded by stone blocks. You can roam the castle’s ramparts, which enjoy panoramic views of Zagreb and the plain beyond.

However you arrive on Sljeme, its main point of reference is the TV transmission tower, built on the summit in 1980. The tower’s top floor originally housed a restaurant and viewing terrace, but the lifts broke down after three months and it’s been closed to the public ever since. A north-facing terrace near the foot of the tower provides good views of the low hills of the Zagorje, a rippling green landscape broken by red-roofed villages. Just west of here is the Tomislavov Dom hotel, home to a couple of cafés and a restaurant, below which you can pick up a trail to the medieval fortress of Medvedgrad (2hr). Alternatively you can follow signs southwest from Tomislavov Dom to the Grafičar mountain hut, some twenty minutes away, where there’s a café serving basic snacks.

Paths continue east along the ridge, emerging after about twenty minutes at the Puntijarka mountain refuge, one of many popular refreshment stops serving the traditional hiker’s fare, grah (bean soup).

Top image: St. Mark's Church in Zagreb © 9MOT/Shutterstock

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10 reasons why Zagreb, Croatia should be your next European city break

As the inland capital of a country famous for its dazzling island-speckled coastline, Zagreb is often overlooked by travellers.

It may not have the Adriatic Sea or the beach, but I was immediately charmed by the Croatian capital’s vibrance, culture and history. Visiting a less well-known city meant I arrived with no expectations. Unlike iconic European heavyweights such as Paris and Rome, Zagreb is not instantly recognisable, which meant I could enjoy exploring and discovering local life without feeling the pressure to tick off its most famous sights.

From its intriguing architecture to nearby natural havens – not to mention its coffee scene – this underrated European capital has something for everyone. This all-encompassing Zagreb guide provides proof.

Its intriguing cityscape                                                                                                         

Unlike most western European capitals, Zagreb’s cityscape is a fascinating mixture of classic Austro-Hungarian architecture and gritty socialist structures. Some of the city’s most emblematic buildings include the iconic, colourful roof of St Mark’s Church and the twin spires of Zagreb Cathedral which tower above the Croatian capital.

View from Zagreb 360° tower

In contrast to old-world cobbled streets of the old town lined with ornate, centuries-old buildings, Novi Zagreb is home to starkly brutal and modernist communist architecture and concrete structures built under the Yugoslavia era. I loved checking out Zagreb’s cityscape from the Zagreb 360 tower and Lotrščak Tower.

ZAGREB IS ONE OF OUR TOP 7 UNDERRATED CITIES IN EUROPE; SEE THE REST

Croatian coffee culture

Caffeine addicts will be in their element in the Croatian capital. One of the first things I noticed when wandering around downtown Zagreb was the endless row of café terraces filled with people sipping coffee. With an electric mix of Italian, Turkish and Austro-Hungarian influences, coffee culture here is steeped in history.

While many enjoy sitting and watching the world go by, in Croatia coffee is all about socialising. Whether its catching up with friends or doing business, the social role of coffee is crucial. And unlike in many bustling cities, coffee is not just a quick pick-me-up but an event, only to be drunk at a café table and never to take away.

For the best beans, try Cogito Coffee, U Dvorištu or Eli’s Caffè.

For those who love the outdoors, Zagreb has far more to offer than your average European city. Mount Medvednica perching over the Croatian capital offers a natural escape for locals who come to admire beautiful views over Zagreb. While hiking up the heavily wooded slopes I couldn’t believe I was only a short tram ride away from the city centre.

Mount Medvednica

If hiking isn’t your thing, spend a summer’s day basking in the sun at Jarun Lake or wander around Maksimir Park.

VISIT ZAGREB ON THIS 10-DAY TRIP FROM DUBROVNIK TO VENICE

Quirky museums

Every European capital has some very impressive art and history museums, but few have displays as quirky as the Museum of Broken Relationships.

Initially an art project between two Zagreb-based artists after they broke up, the exhibition toured the world for several years before becoming the city’s most unusual museum. From an old vine record to a toaster, each seemingly mundane item on display comes with an emotionally charged story about a lost love. It was definitely one of the most memorable and poignant exhibitions I’ve been to.

READ MORE: A GUIDE TO CROATIA’S VIBRANT ART SCENE

Its historic Upper Town

Perched on two small hills encircled by Renaissance-era walls, the Zagreb’s oldest district is home to many of the city’s main attractions. The picturesque medieval part of the Croatian capital boasts its most impressive architecture and great views over the rest of the city.

St Mark’s Church

Croatian beer and wine

For those who aren’t so keen on coffee, there are other popular beverages on the Zagreb drinking scene. After sunset the city centre comes alive as the streets and squares transform into an open-air party. The epicentre of Zagreb nightlife is on Tkalčićeva street, a buzzing, pedestrianised street lined with bar and restaurant terraces.

Beer drinkers will love the huge selection of locally brewed craft beers – starting at just €2 to 3 per half litre – at the Craft Room. Wine lovers have to make a stop at Bornstein, Croatia’s oldest winery.

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Local produce

Get a taste of local life by browsing Dolac Market, a colourful, open-air fruit and veg market in a picturesque setting in the old town. Buy yourself some fruit or a pastry and enjoy the lively atmosphere.

Dolac Market

You can also try Mali Plac (little market), a weekly event which promotes local produce from small producers.

One of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe

Situated on the lower slopes of Mount Medvednica, Mirogoj cemetery is home to the graves of many famous Croatian figures. Its majestic leaf-covered arcade boasts an impressive, fortress-like piece of architecture from the outside which provides a place of tranquility and peace on the inside. The lush cemetery’s winding paths are lined with sculptures and beautifully decorated tombs.

RELATED: HERE’S HOW TO SPEND THE ULTIMATE 7 DAYS IN CROATIA

Adventure to the Plitvice Lakes

If you’re staying in Zagreb for more than a couple of days, it is the perfect distance for a day trip to the gorgeous Plitvice Lakes.

Yours truly at Plitvice Lakes

This densely forested, eden-like paradise is home to 16 crystal clear lakes which change colour according to the season. I debated over I had the time to visit but I am so glad I did – the lakes are absolutely breathtaking.

Wander along the Green Horseshoe

Unlike many capital cities, Zagreb is not short of green spaces thanks to a forward-thinking urban planner called Milan Lenuci. The trademark U-shaped collection of urban greenery is home to parks, squares, fountains and beautiful architecture.

Want to pay this special city a visit? Check out Intrepid’s range of small group adventures in Croatia.

(Hero image c/o Intrepid Travel. All other images c/o Selina Sykes.)

Facebook image c/o iStock/joyt

Feeling inspired?

Selina Sykes

Selina is a Londoner living in Paris where she is often found drinking wine and eating cheese. She's a news producer at a French television channel and Franglais is officially her first language. When not embracing that famous joie de vivre, she’s probably traveling somewhere in Europe. Her favorite city in France (other than Paris) is Lyon and she’ll happily talk your ear off about why Belgium is the most underrated country in western Europe.

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Zagreb Travel Guide

Last Updated: September 5, 2024

Underrated and underappreciated, the Croatian capital Zagreb is incredible. I really loved my time here. It’s super affordable, there are not a lot of tourists, and it’s beautiful with its parks and historic buildings.

Moreover, Zagreb has a remarkable museum scene, including quirky offerings like the Museum of Broken Relationships, the Hangover Museum, and the Mimara Museum, to name a few. Plus, there’s a budding restaurant scene and handfuls of fun pubs to quaff beer and rakija , the stomach-melting fruit brandy that is ubiquitous in the Balkans.

While most tourists in Croatia are sunning themselves on the (crowded) Dalmatian Coast, you’ll likely be enjoying Zagreb with a handful of other visitors as it sees a fraction of the tourists compared to Split and Dubrovnik .

And everyone here is super chill. The national pastime is sitting at one of the gazillion outdoor cafes that are spread out among the large squares and along the cobblestone streets of the city center and nursing a coffee for as long as humanly possible.

This travel guide to Zagreb will allow you to get the most out of your trip here.

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• How to Stay Safe
• Where to Stay
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• How to Get Around
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Zagreb

Click Here for City Guides

Top 5 things to see and do in zagreb.

1. Visit the Museum of Broken Relationships

Originally created as a traveling exhibit by two Croatian artists after their romantic relationship ended, this museum hosts a collection of random (and weird) but meaningful objects that the broken-hearted have donated. These objects symbolize now-broken relationships and you can read descriptions of them to learn about the relationships they represent. Objects include items such as an “ex-axe,” used by a woman to destroy her ex’s furniture when their relationship suddenly ended. In addition to the physical exhibits, there is a virtual space where visitors can add their own stories, photos, or documents to the museum’s archives. Admission is 7 EUR.

2. Explore the Upper Town

Enter Zagreb’s “Upper Town” or Gradec , in the local parlance, by trudging through the medieval city gate. According to local lore, there was a massive fire in 1731 that burned down most of the gate, save a 17th-century painting of the Virgin and Child. That painting is still there and locals regularly stop to pray in front of it or light a candle in honor of this supposed miracle. Located on a hillside, Upper Town is the oldest part of the city, with winding streets, historic sites, museums, and rustic taverns for when your feet need a break and you get thirsty. Main sights here include the Zagreb Cathedral, Saint Mark’s Church (one of Zagreb’s most iconic buildings), and the 13th-century Lotrscak Tower which offers sweeping views over the city.

3. Go on a bar crawl on Tkalciceva Street

Named after a 19th-century Zagreb historian, this car-free street lies on top of the former river that was the hub for much of Zagreb’s historic industrial activities. It was paved over in the 19th century due to pollution and has been attracting visitors ever since. In the early 20th century, it was home to the city’s red-light district, but today the brothels have been replaced by bars. The entire street, which begins at the city’s main square, Ban Jelacic, is now lined with bustling bars, outdoor cafes, and small boutiques.

4. Marvel at Zagreb Cathedral

The second tallest building in Croatia, the twin neo-gothic spires of this cathedral dominate the city’s skyline. Technically called the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the church’s foundations go back to the 13th century. A fire in the late 19th century destroyed a large portion of the structure and it was rebuilt in the neo-gothic style. Inside, look for the tomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac, which was done by famed Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrovic. The cathedral’s organ, with its 6,000 pipes, is one of the largest and most famous organs in the world. It even has its own festival over the summer when world-renowned organ players come and perform. Admission to the cathedral is free. Unfortunately, due to the earthquake in March 2020 that struck Zagreb, the cathedral is undergoing repairs and entrance is not currently possible. It’s set to reopen by summer 2023.

5. Check out the art at Mimara Museum

The Museum Mimara was born when Croatian art collector Ante Topic Mimara bequeathed a sizeable portion of his 3,700-piece collection of art to the city. Housed in a new-Renaissance building in the Lower Town, the museum boasts works by Bronzino, Bosch, Van Dyck, Rubens, Goya, and Velázquez, among many others. As far as notable art museums are concerned, this one is really underrated, though not without its share of controversy, as some experts suggest that not all of the works are authentic. Even so, it’s an impressive collection and an inspiring way to spend an afternoon. Admission is 5 EUR. (Currently closed due to damage from an earthquake).

Other Things to See and Do in Zagreb

1. take a free walking tour.

One of the first things I do in a new destination is take a free walking tour. It’s the best way to get the lay of the land, see the main sights, and connect with an expert local guide. Free Spirit Tours offers a detailed two-hour walking tour that covers all the main highlights. You’ll learn about the city’s history while walking past Stone Gate, St. Mark’s Square, Lotrš?ak Tower, the Bloody Bridge, and other important sites. You’ll also get to see the Dolac Farmer’s Market and Tkal?i?eva Street, the city’s main entertainment area, along the way. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!

2. Visit the Zagreb City Museum

If you want to get a deeper sense of the Croatian capital, the city museum is an excellent place to start. Housed in a 17th-century convent, this museum takes visitors through prehistory to the Roman period, through the Middle Ages, and all the way into the 20th century. There are more than 75,000 objects in the collection that collectively provide insight into how the city has transformed through the centuries. There are all kinds of maps, paintings, furniture, maps, furniture, flags, and military uniforms. Admission is 5 EUR.

3. Admire the Zagreb Botanical Garden

To escape the hustle and bustle of the city, head to the botanical garden for a stroll. Founded in 1889 by a professor from the University of Zagreb, the garden is located in the center of the city and spans 12 acres. It’s a wonderful way to spend a few hours, taking in the sights and smells of over 10,000 species of plants and flowers from around the world. Within the sprawling grounds, you’ll find an arboretum, greenhouses, and rock gardens to enjoy. There’s a fascinating exhibit dedicated to plants native to Croatia. Entry costs 2 EUR. If you’re looking to save a bit of cash, the entrance is free on Mondays and Tuesdays.

4. Nurse your hangover at the Museum of Hangovers

Did you spend last night drinking your way down Tkalciceva Street, pounding beers and doing shots of rakija along the way? Then point yourself to this unique museum. The Museum of Hangovers is a fun (and sometimes painful) journey through the world of hangovers. There are rooms dedicated to things people found in the morning after a night of hard boozing and a room where you can even tell your own worst hangover story, among other interesting exhibitions. Admission is 8.50 EUR.

5. Snack your way through the Dolac Market

Set in the hungry heart of Zagreb’s city center, the Dolac Market (pronounced “Doe-latz”) is a feast for the senses. Pop into this market (first opened in 1930) before 1pm to get the best experience. Expect to see locals buying up fresh fruits and veggies, just-pulled-from-the-river fish, and various parts of the pig. For food to eat on the go (or for a picnic) pick up some sir i vrhnje (a creamy cheese) and kružnjak (cornbread), two very typical Zagreb staples, and eat them together.

6. Take a spooky history tour

Learn about Zagreb’s shady side with this fun, small-group guided tour that focuses on the gloomy and ghoulish, the eerie and the evil history of this southeast European metropolis. You’ll venture through graveyards, possibly meet ghosts, and learn about the witch hunts of the past that took place here. There’s also talk of a secret dragon society in the city too! Secret Zagreb Ghosts and Dragons tours cost 15 EUR and last just under two hours.

7. Take a time-out in Maksimir Park

Opened in 1794, this large swath of green just east of the city center is a delightful way to get away from it all. It’s also the oldest public park in the city. Walk through the grand gate and you’ll enter a verdant landscape that seems far from the bustle of downtown Zagreb. There are five small lakes and seven springs within the park that give you plenty of places to relax. Wildlife is abundant in the park and you may catch a peek of foxes, squirrels, deer, and a wide variety of forest birds. Filled with meadows, streams, and old-growth oak groves, the park is a fine place for a picnic. Admission is free. It’s also home to the Zagreb Zoo, which costs 4 EUR.

8. Stroll through Gric Tunnel

The 1,150-foot Gric Tunnel (pronounced “Greech”) was first built during World War II as a potential bomb shelter. After that, the tunnel, which goes right under the Upper Town, fell into disrepair and was practically forgotten about. In early ‘90s, it was used as the spot for one of the earliest raves in Zagreb and was a party spot for the city’s youth. In 2016, though, the city government renovated the pedestrian tunnel and opened it up to the public. It’s an easy shortcut from one part of the city to another, but really it’s a fun atmospheric stroll in a World War II-era tunnel. And it’s free.

9. Learn about Communism and the Croatian Homeland

This in-depth-guided tour teaches you the history of (what is now modern-day) Croatia during World War II. You’ll learn about the former Yugoslavia and its formation and ironclad rule by Josip Broz Tito, the eventual civil war during the 1990s, the end of communism and Tito’s regime, and the rebuilding of the country as newly formed Croatia. You’ll get to walk through the underground tunnels from WWII and see inside a basement that was used as an underground bunker during air raids. It was fascinating and one of my favorite experiences in Zagreb. Tours with Free Spirit Tours cost 35 EUR and last around two hours.

10. Walk the Green Horseshoe

If you arrive in Zagreb by train, the “horseshoe” may be the first thing you encounter when leaving the railway station and trudging to the center of town with your backpack. And what a lovely welcome it is. Conceived in 1882 by Milan Lenuci, the Green Horseshoe (also sometimes called the Lenuci Horseshoe) is a U-shaped series of connected squares and parks in the city’s Donji Grad, or Lower City. Along the way, you’ll encounter many of the city’s museums as well as century-old mansions that once belonged to the city’s old-moneyed aristocrats.

11. Ride the funicular

The ride won’t take very long, but it beats trekking up the steep steps from the Lower Town to the Upper Town. One of the shortest funiculars in the world, this slanted train was built in 1888. Originally, it was powered by steam. It earned the nickname Zapinjaca “stucker” because passengers would have to get out and push when it got stuck. The steam engines were replaced by electrical in 1934. The funicular has kept its original appearance and structure, which allows it to be a protected cultural monument. A ride on the funicular will set you back a whopping 0.66 EUR. If you’re hankering for a snack on the lower end of the funicular, on the same block is the traditional and rustic Croatian restaurant Vallis Aurea.

12. Take a day trip to Jarun Lake

Just 8 kilometers (5 miles) from the city center, this man-made lake is built for warm weather days when you need a respite from the heat and you don’t feel like going all the way to the Dalmatian Coast for a dip in the water. There are actually two lakes here: Malo Jarun (“Small Jarun”) and Veliko Jarun (“Big Jarun”). Swim or kayak in the lake or take a bike around them. There are even options for windsurfing, miniature golf, bowling, and playing chess in the gardens. It’s a wonderful option if you’re traveling with children or want to get out and do something active. Trams 5 or 17 will get you there.

13. Take a day trip to Plitvice Lake

Tucked between Zagreb and the Dalmatian Coast, Plitvice Lakes National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s composed of 16 interconnected lakes and over 90 waterfalls. You can go hiking, rowing, and even sledding in the winter. There are eight different hiking routes that range from 3km to 18 km (about 2-11 miles). I highly recommend taking at least one of the trails up into the forest. Looking down on the lakes from that perspective is incredible. It’s beautiful but super popular so arrive early (expect crowds). Admission is 10-40 EUR depending on the month and time of day you visit (prices rise in the summer). You can book a day trip with Get Your Guide for around 55 EUR.

For more information on specific cities in Croatia, check out these guides:

• Dubrovnik Travel Guide
• Split Travel Guide

How to Stay Safe in Zagreb

Zagreb is a safe place to backpack and travel — even if you’re traveling solo or are a solo female traveler. Take your normal precautions while in Zagreb but generally, the Croatian capital is very safe. Violent crimes are rare. Pickpocketing and petty theft might be the most common danger, but even that isn’t as frequent as in other European metropolises.

That said, always keep your valuables secure and out of sight when out and about. It’s just a helpful habit.

Solo female travelers should feel safe here. However, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, avoid walking home alone if you’ve been drinking, etc.). For more specific information, check out one of the many solo female travel blogs about the city. They can provide tips that I can’t.

While scams here are rare, you can read about common travel scams to avoid right here .

If you do experience an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

Always trust your gut instinct. Make copies of your personal documents, including your passport and ID.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase quality travel insurance. Travel insurance protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Where to Stay in Zagreb

Zagreb has plenty of budget-friendly places to stay. Here are my recommended spots for when you visit:

• Hotel Sliško
• Hostel Mali Mrak Zagreb
• The Dots Hostel
• Main Square
• Hotel Orient Zagreb
• Hotel Croatia

Zagreb Travel Costs

Accommodation

• Hostel dorms – 18-30 EUR per night
• Hostel private rooms – 37-70 EUR per night
• Budget hotels – 70-110 EUR per night
• Airbnb private rooms – 40 EUR per night
• Airbnb apartments – 40-50 EUR per night
• Market lunch – 7-10 EUR
• Sit-down restaurants – 10-25 EUR
• Fine dining – 135 EUR per person
• Casual take-out places – 7-10 EUR
• Fast food (think McDonald’s) – 7 EUR
• Beer – 3-4 EUR
• Cappuccino/latte – 2 EUR
• Bottled water – 1.70 EUR
• Groceries for a week – 35-45 EUR

Zagreb Suggested Budgets

Backpacker – 50 eur per day.

If you are backpacking, this budget covers staying in a hostel dorm, cooking all of your meals, limiting your drinking, doing free activities like hiking and free walking tours, and using public transportation to get around. You’ll need to budget more if you’re visiting in the summer or if you plan on drinking.

Midrange – 115 EUR Per Day

On a mid-range budget, you can stay in a private Airbnb or private hostel room. You’ll be able to eat out for all your meals, have a few drinks, take some guided tours, take the occasional taxi to get around, and visit more museums and attractions (like the funicular).

Upscale – 210 EUR Per Day

On a “luxury” budget, you can stay in a hotel, rent a car to get around, do private guided tours, eat and drink as much as you’d like, and visit as many museums and attractions as you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

Zagreb Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Zagreb is pretty affordable. It’s not anywhere near as expensive as destinations on the coast and there’s a lot of budget friendly restaurants, free tours, and accommodation. It’s easy to save money here. Here are some ways to do so when in Zagreb:

Buy a Zagreb card – A Zagreb card offers free transportation on trams and buses, admission to the city’s best museums, and even entrance to the zoo. The cost is 20 EUR for 24 hours and 26 EUR for 72 hours. You can buy a Zagreb card online or at any of these locations in the city.

Walk everywhere – Zagreb is a very walkable city. Most of the sites you want to see are within a 20 or 30-minute walk (at most) from the city center. Skip public transportation if you’re on a tight budget.

Bring a water bottle – The tap water here is safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure your water is always clean and safe.

Redeem hotel points – Make sure you sign up for hotel credit cards and use those points when you travel. You can use them to pay for accommodations and most cards come with 1-2 nights free when you join, which can save you a lot on your travels. This post will help you learn the basics so you can start earning points today and have plenty by the time you go.

Pay with the local currency – When paying with a credit card, if you’re asked whether you want to pay in the local currency rather than US dollars (or whatever currency your card is tied to), always choose the local currency. You always get a better rate with the local currency.

Get a transit pass – If you do want to use public transit, a pass can save over paying for single rides. A 24-hour pass starts at 4 EUR and a 72-hour pass starts around 9.50 EUR. For those staying longer, a one-week pass is 20 EUR.

Travel during shoulder season – Zagreb doesn’t have the surge of tourists that towns on the Dalmatian Coast get during the summers. But prices do drop in the shoulder season (April-May; September-October) and they definitely drop during the winter months, so if you’re looking for a more affordable trip, plan according to the season.

Embrace brunch – In Croatia, there’s a thing called a marenda , if you’re on the Dalmatian Coast, or gablec (pronounced “gob-letz”) in Zagreb. This is basically a daily brunch that occurs starting around 11am. It’s a cheap, sometimes multi-course, and usually hearty early lunch, originally for low-wage laborers who started work early and would get hungry by the late morning. Stroll the Zagreb streets looking for sandwich boards in front of restaurants that will be advertising the menu of their daily gablec that day. Sometimes it might just say “danas” (Croatian for “daily”) atop the sandwich board and then list the menu underneath. Expect to pay around 5-10 EUR.

How to Get Around in Zagreb

Public transportation – The city has a fairly extensive tram system. There are 19 different lines – 14 during the day until 12am and 5 tram lines that run from midnight to 4am – and you can buy a ticket at any Tisak street kiosk. The cost is 0.53 EUR for a 30-minute ride and 0.93 EUR for a one-hour ride.

Make sure you validate the ticket via the small yellow onboard box upon getting on the tram. Buses are similar and traverse the city where trams don’t go.

Getting to and from Zagreb’s relatively new airport is easy. Hop on the Croatian Airlines bus outside the arrivals hall. It leaves every 30 minutes and costs 8 EUR each way, depositing travelers at the city’s main bus station, about a 15-minute walk to the city center.

Taxi – Taxis here are affordable, starting at 1.90 EUR and going up 0.90 EUR per kilometer. That said, taxis add up quickly so I’d skip them if you’re on a budget.

Bike rental – Zagreb is an easy city to bike around and you can find full-day rentals for around 9.50 EUR from Blue Bike.

Car rental – Car rentals are super affordable in Zagreb, costing as little as 15 EUR per day for a multi-day rental. You won’t need a car to get around the city, but if you want to explore the region then a car will be helpful. For the best rental car deals, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Zagreb

Unlike other super-popular destinations where you have to strategize when to go to avoid the crush of other tourists, Zagreb is a place that can be visited any time of the year. Naturally, summer is going to be more crowded and prices might go up a bit, but you’re not going to be overwhelmed here. Expect summer highs around 28°C (82°F). June is one of the rainiest months of the year and there’s plenty in July and August as well. Temperatures drop in the evenings with lows between 14-16°C (58°-61°F). Be sure to pack rain gear and a light jacket.

The shoulder season of April-May and September-October are some of the best times to visit as the crowds will have thinned out and the weather is still pleasant. High temperatures range between 16-22°C (61-72°F) and lows average between 6-12°C (44-53°F). You can expect 8-10 days with rain during these months, so be sure to bring layers that will keep you warm and dry.

If you’re absolutely allergic to other tourists, come to Zagreb in winter; you’ll have to deal with colder temperatures around 7°C (low to mid 40s °F) and often-dreary skies but it will just be you and the locals. The city gets mostly rain, but there is a bit of snow. This is the driest time of the year to visit, but you’ll still want to bring plenty of warm layers if you visit during the winter months.

Zagreb Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

GO DEEPER: Nomadic Matt’s In-Depth Budget Guide to Europe!

There’s a lot of free information online but do you want to spend days searching for information? Prob not! That’s why guidebooks exist.

While I have a lot of free tips on Europe, I also wrote an entire book that goes into great detail on everything you need to plan a trip here on a budget! You’ll get suggested itineraries, budgets, even more ways to save money, my favorite restaurants, prices, practical information (i.e. phone numbers, websites, prices, safety advice, etc etc), and cultural tips.

I’ll give the insider view of Europe that I got from years of traveling and living here! The downloadable guide can be used on your Kindle, iPad, phone, or computer so you can have it with you when you go. Click here to learn more about my book on Europe!

Zagreb Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more tips for your trip? Check out all the articles I’ve written on Zagreb travel and continue planning your trip:

Croatia Itineraries: From One Week to a Month!

The Perfect 7-Day Croatia Itinerary

The 17 Best Things To Do in Croatia

Get your  free travel starter kit.

Enter your email and get planning cheatsheets including a step by step checklist, packing list, tips cheat sheet, and more so you can plan like a pro!

• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

16 Top-Rated Attractions & Things to Do in Zagreb

Written by Meagan Drillinger Updated Dec 22, 2023

Author Meagan Drillinger visited Zagreb as part of a month-long journey around Croatia.

While the coastline and sparkling white, pebbly beaches are often dancing in Croatia's spotlight, its capital city Zagreb is, undeniably, the country's capital of culture. Caught somewhere between the old world and the new, Zagreb is the beating heart of Croatia's cultural scene. It's a must for any first-time trip to Croatia and continues to stay entertaining and relevant for even the most veteran of Balkans travelers.

This juxtaposition of old-world charm and 21st-century energy is palpable. I found myself stepping back in time as I looked out from the historic walls of medieval Gornji Grad ( Upper Town ) over the landscape of red-tiled roofs and cathedral steeples. Without any context, this view could have been at any point in time over the last several centuries.

But upon further inspection, I found evidence of modern-day Zagreb down below in Donji Grad ( Lower Town )— quirky museums, haute Croatian cuisine, and even the occasional ramen shop, the Croatian National Theatre all now make up the Zagreb scene.

A good place to start your Zagreb adventure is in Trg Bana Jelacica, the city's main square where the Upper and Lower Towns meet. Here, you will also find the colorful Tkalciceva Street, which is filled with sidewalk cafes and restaurants, as well as boutique shops. And if you like museums, you'll love Zagreb, which hosts some truly unique ones.

Find the best places to visit in the city with our list of the top attractions and things to do in Zagreb, Croatia.

Take a Stroll through Zagreb's Upper Town (Gornji Grad)

See the treasures at zagreb cathedral, visit the museum of broken relationships, climb lotrscak tower, see the historic stone gate, feel artsy at the museum of contemporary art, the museum of mimara, visit the art pavilion and the mestrovic gallery, get curious at the croatian museum of naïve art, see a performance at the croatian national theatre, explore maksimir park, the archeological and ethnographic museums, the city museum, st. catherine's church, zagreb botanical garden, the gallery of modern art, map of attractions & things to do in zagreb, zagreb, croatia - climate chart.

Nothing sets the scene in Zagreb quite like Gornji Grad, with its cobblestone streets and red-tiled roofs. Wandering the narrow stone-walled passageways is a true time hop, though the delightful chants of neighborhood kids playing soccer in the street brings you screaming back to the present.

Gornji Grad has the highest concentration of historic sites in the city, from its historic churches to fascinating (and off-beat) museums. Make sure you stroll along its most famous street, the colorful Tkalciceva Street , which is filled with sidewalk cafes and restaurants, as well as boutiques. Other highlights include Kaptol Square , notable for its many early 17th-century buildings, and the Dolac fruit and vegetable market .

Perhaps the most striking feature, however, is St. Mark's Church , easily recognizable by the brightly colored tile roof bearing the coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, Slavonia, and Zagreb City. Be sure to also pop inside for a look at the stunning interior with its statues by famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic, along with frescoes painted by Jozo Kljakovic.

Address: Trg Sv Marka 5, Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb Cathedral was erected on the site of a previous structure destroyed by the Tartars in the early 1200s. Famous for its two ornately decorated spires, the present cathedral was built in the later half of the 13th century, although many alterations and renovations have been made since that have changed the structure dramatically.

Most recently, the earthquake of 1880 destroyed large sections, including the dome and bell tower, although reconstruction maintained the original medieval design. Be sure to also visit the cathedral treasury with its many fine works of religious art, garments, and sacred objects.

From the cathedral it is a quick walk to Trg Bana Jelacica, where you will find a great selection of restaurants for lunch. One that I particularly enjoyed was RougeMarin , whose downtown outpost is a smaller version of its extremely popular larger restaurant. The menu here swings Croatian and Mediterranean with an international twist, from the Japanese-style fried chicken to the "steak tacos" served in fluffy pita boats and filled with mozzarella cheese. Sit al fresco for some excellent people-watching.

Just next door is Torikaya Ramen Bar , a restaurant that serves piping hot bowls of silky ramen noodles in a selection of decadent broths. One thing is certain — you will not go hungry when you're visiting Zagreb.

Address: 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

Of all the many museums in Zagreb, this one was perhaps my favorite because, frankly, I've never seen anything else quite like it. It is exactly like it sounds — a museum dedicated to mementos that tell the stories of broken hearts and love gone wrong.

The Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) is a small museum in the heart of Gornji Grad and can be explored in less than an hour. It has four separate all-white rooms, each of which is dedicated to a version of heartbreak. Museum items have all been donated by old lovers and partners from around the world. Alongside each item is the brief story of the relationship's end and what makes the item significant.

Be sure to stop through the gift shop on the way out and pick up an "I Heart Breakups" t-shirt. The museum also has an outdoor cafe with sidewalk seating.

Admission to the museum is 7 Euros.

Address: Sv Cirila i Metoda 3, Gornji grad, Zagreb, Croatia

Built to guard the southern gate of the Gradec town wall, the Lotrscak Tower (Kula Lotrscak) dates to the 13th century and has long been one of Zagreb's most recognizable landmarks. Legend has it that this large, square Romanesque tower once held a bell that rang out each night prior to the closing of the gates to warn residents outside the walls to return (anyone left outside would have to remain there for the night).

In the 19th century, a fourth floor and windows were added to the tower and a cannon placed on its roof, which has since been fired every day at noon. Visitors can climb the tower for stunning views over the city and visit its exhibition gallery and gift shops.

Note: At the time I visited in May 2023, much of Gornji Grad was under construction in preparation for the summer season so many of the attractions were only accessible from the outside.

Address: Tomićeva ul. 9, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

Another important medieval structure is the famous Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata), the last of five original city gates, and also found in Upper Town. Built in the 13th century, the building famously survived a fire in 1731, as did its painting of Mary and Jesus.

To commemorate the important relic, a chapel was built to house the painting, which has been the subject of pilgrimages ever since and can still be seen behind a metal grille.

Address: Strossmayerovo setaliste 9, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

One of the newest museum's in Zagreb — and, in fact, the largest and most modern museum in Croatia — the Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) is a must-visit for anyone with even an inkling of interest in art. Commonly referred to as MSU, it was opened in 2009 after its collections outgrew its original galleries that had been established in the 1950s.

This strikingly designed building today houses an impressive collection of more than 12,000 artworks, including some 600 or so on permanent display. While the focus is very much on Croatian artwork, those interested in the work of international artists won't be disappointed, either, with sculpted pieces and paintings from around the globe available for viewing.

English-language guided tours are available for groups of four or more visitors. A shop and a cinema are located on-site, and the museum also offers a diverse program of lectures and workshops.

Address: Avenija Dubrovnik 17, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

The Museum of Mimara (Muzej Mimara) was created to house a collection donated by a private collector, Ante Topic Mimara, in 1972. Housed in an 1895 Neo-Renaissance building designed especially for it, this extensive collection covers a wide range of items from a variety of locations and time periods.

There's also a fine archaeological collection containing pieces from Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia, the Middle East, the Far East, India, as well as Inca and Pre-Inca South America. Also of note is a large glass collection from Europe and other Mediterranean countries, along with furniture from the Middle Ages and sculptures from ancient Greece.

Paintings include works by Dutch artists Rembrandt and Ruisdael, Italian artists Raphael and Veronese, Flemish painters Rubens and Van Dyck, and Spanish painters Velázquez and Goya. French and English artists are represented by the works of Renoir, Degas, Boucher, and Delacroix, while notable sculptures include works by Auguste Rodin and Jean-Antoine Houdon.

Address: Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, Croatia

Zagreb's Art Pavilion (Umjetnicki Paviljon), built for the international exhibition in Budapest in 1896, was given its permanent home here after the original iron framework was transported and reconstructed on its current site. Notable for its colorful yellow Art Nouveau exterior, the Art Pavilion is now used for changing exhibitions of contemporary art and contains important works by revered Croatian artist Ivan Mestrovic .

The oldest exhibition hall of its kind in Croatia, this impressive facility faces Trg Kralja Tomislava, a large public square notable for its statue commemorating the first King of Croatia. Also of interest to art lovers is the Mestrovic Gallery (Atelje Mestrovic), housed in a 17th-century home where Ivan Mestrovic once lived and sculpted. On display are some 300 sculptures in wood, stone, and bronze, as well as drawings, furniture, and lithographs representing a variety of themes, including religion and portraiture.

The most recognized Croatian artist and a world-renowned 20th-century sculptor, Mestrovic later moved to Paris where he became friends with Auguste Rodin (one of his most famous works, Pieta Romana, is on display in the Vatican).

Address: Trg kralja Tomislava 22, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

Another one of Zagreb's quirky museums, the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art (Hrvatski Muzej Naivne Umjetnosti) is also very popular. It features many displays of works by such well-known "naïve" artists as Ivan Generalic, Mraz, Mirko Virius, and Smaljic. Also on display are similar style works — sometimes referred to as "primitive" art — by international artists.

Despite the name, naive art was actually a style that was popular in what is now Croatia, as well as the world, in the 1960s and 1970s. It is less popular today but refers to a genre of art that has a dreamlike quality with lots of color.

This museum is one of many located in Gornji Grad, so it's easy to hit a few museums in one afternoon.

Address: Cirilometodska 3, Zagreb, Croatia

Built in 1895 by Viennese architects Hermann Helmer and Ferdinand Fellner, the Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko Narodno Kazaliste) sits at the northwest corner of Zagreb's "Green Horseshoe" in Donji Grad. Officially opened in 1894 by Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph I, this imposing yellow structure in Trg Marsala is a landmark feature in the Lower Town .

Built in Neo-Baroque and Rococo styles, with two small domes at the front and a larger dome towards the back, the building also boasts a superb interior containing artworks by Vlaho Bukovac and The Well of Life by Ivan Mestrovic. If possible, try to attend one of the venue's regular opera, ballet, or drama performances.

Address: Trg marsala Tita 15, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

Designed in the style of an old English garden, Maksimir Park (Maksimirska) is a beautiful green space encompassing almost 45 acres. The largest park in Zagreb, it contains two pavilions: Bellevue Pavilion, built in 1843, and Echo Pavilion, added after a Swiss design.

The park also boasts many excellent paths and trails, as well as manmade lakes, wooded areas, and flower gardens, making it a great place to relax or have a picnic. For those traveling with youngsters, there's also a small zoo.

Referred to by locals as Zagreb's "living monument," Maksimir Park is named after Bishop Maksimilijan Vrhovac, who was responsible for its construction in 1794. Across from Maksimir park is the Dinamo Football Stadium where Croatia hosts international matches.

Address: Maksimirski perivoj, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

With its focus on Croatia's rich history, Zagreb's Archeological Museum (Arheoloski Muzej) boasts five main collections containing some 400,000 pieces, many of which are from the local area. Of particular interest is the museum's display of Egyptian mummies (the cloth from the Mummy of Zagreb shows script that has yet to be deciphered), Greek vases, and a medieval section focusing on the Great Migrations of the Peoples.

One of the most important pieces is the Head of Plautilla from the ancient town of Salona, as well as an extensive coin collection, including Greek, Celtic, Roman, Byzantine, and modern pieces.

Also of interest is the Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) with its extensive collection showing the cultural history of Croatia through exhibits of ceramics, jewelry, gold, musical instruments, textiles, tools, weapons, and elaborate costumes.

The traditional folk costumes alone are worth the visit, with various colors and styles illustrating the country's regional diversity.

Address: 19 Nikola Subic Zrinski Square, Box 13, Zagreb, Croatia

The City Museum (Muzej Grada Zagreba), in Zagreb's Upper Town, consists of the Convent of St. Clair, a tower from the 1100s, and a 17th-century granary. Built along the eastern town wall, the museum has been in operation since 1907 and houses 12 collections, including almost 75,000 pieces.

Together the collections describe the history of Zagreb through documents, maps, art, archeological finds, and other historical pieces, including a superb scale model of the old town of Gradec. The City Museum also has interactive exhibits to interest children, including hands-on workshops and a playroom.

Address: Opaticka ulica 20, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

The Jesuit Church of St. Catherine was built in the first half of the 17th century and is considered one of the finest churches in Zagreb. Highlights include its beautiful interior with many fine examples of Baroque art, along with stucco reliefs by Italian artist Antonio Quadrio dating from the 1720s. Also of note is the ceiling of the nave with its many medallions with scenes depicting the life of St. Catherine by Giulio Quaglia.

Other features of interest are the Altar of St. Ignatius by Francesco Robba and, behind the main altar, the fresco St. Catherine Among Alexandrine Philosophers and Writer s by Kristof Andrej Jelovsek, dating from 1762.

Address: Katarinin trg bb, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

The Botanical Garden (Botanicki Vrt) was originally built as a research area for Zagreb University's Faculty of Botany. Encompassing some 50,000 square meters, it's part of a series of parks, which form the city's "Green Horseshoe" in Donji Grad .

On the grounds are an arboretum, two ponds with numerous aquatic plants, an ornamental bridge, and some 10,000 different plant species, making for a pleasant escape from the city and a great place to relax or take a walk.

Afterwards, if you have energy left for another museum, take in the nearby Natural History Museum (Hrvatski Prirodoslovni Muzej). Housed in the Amadeo Palace built in the early 1700s, the museum boasts some 2.5 million pieces, including minerals from around the world, an extensive zoological collection documenting a variety of plants and animals from Croatia, and finds from local archaeological digs.

Address: Marulicev trg 9A, Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb's Gallery of Modern Art (Moderna Galerija) is in Donji Grad in the splendid Vraniczany Palace, built in 1882. Home to numerous fine works by 19th- and 20th-century Croatian artists, the Gallery of Modern Art opened in 1973, although the institution dates from the early 1900s when it began acquiring important pieces by such artists as Ivan Mestrovic, Mirko Racki, and F Bilak.

The collection has grown through the years and now displays works by Ljubo Babic, Miljenko Stancic, V. Karas, M. Masic, Emanuel Vidovic, and a host of other well-known Croatian artists, along with frequent temporary exhibitions.

Address: Andrije Hebranga 1, Zagreb, Croatia

Located in the north of Croatia, Zagreb's seasons are relatively on par with the rest of continental Europe — warm and sunny summers, and cold, snowy winters. The best time to visit Zagreb is between the months of May, June, July, and August , when the weather becomes much warmer on a near-daily basis. That said, summers can also be quite rainy in the capital city, particularly in June with the average rainfall is 104 mm.

May in Zagreb is when the true travel season starts, with temperatures averaging 15 degrees Celsius during the day. I visited in May and was treated to t-shirt weather during the day and a light jacket in the evenings.

In June, Zagreb starts to warm up to a delicious 18 degrees Celsius. Summer is really kicked into high gear in July and August, with an average daily temperature of 21 degrees. This is the time, however, when streets are usually jam-packed with other tourists and hotel prices are at their highest.

September in Zagreb is also a really lovely time to visit as the crowds have thinned out but temperatures remain warm at 16 degrees. Rainfall tapers off in September, as well, with an average of only 66 mm.

More Related Articles on PlanetWare.com

Exploring the Dalmatian Coast : The Dalmatian Coast is Croatia's most popular tourist area. Here, you will find the country's most impressive medieval town, Dubrovnik, which also served as the set for some Game of Thrones episodes. For more on exploring this amazing city, check out our article on the top attractions in Dubrovnik . Another top destination on this stretch of coastline is the dynamic city of Split. For more on how to experience this historical city, see our article on the top tourist attractions in Split .

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Zagreb Itinerary: How to Spend 4 Days in Zagreb, Croatia

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Looking for the best things to do in Zagreb, Croatia? Look no further than this 4 days in Zagreb itinerary!

I visited Zagreb last spring and immediately felt at home in this young and vibrant city, still recovering from its turbulent past, but with its eyes on the future.

The capital of the young republic of Croatia – the country declared independence from ex-Yugoslavia in 1991 – is a place where Western, Central and Southeast Europe meet, and that will surprise you with its splendor, energy, and joie de vivre.

If you’re headed to Zagreb any time soon – and I certainly recommend you do! – make sure to make the best of your time.

Based on my recent trip, this Zagreb travel itinerary offers you the highlights of Zagreb in four days, and it’s a great starting point for exploring the beauty of Croatia.

• Top 12 Gorgeous Yoga Retreats in Croatia

Table of Contents

4 days in Zagreb itinerary:

Wander through the streets of zagreb.

I personally like to familiarize myself with a new place by wandering around with all my senses fully awake. Usually, these first impressions are the ones that stuck with me the longest.

So I’d recommend you start exploring the capital of Croatia by losing yourself in the colorful and picturesque streets of the old town.

Zagreb is a walkable medium-sized city, with fascinating and diverse architecture, and ever-present old trams seemingly just arrived from the communist era.

Another great way to explore Zagreb is by taking a walking tour with a local guide .

People watch at Ban Jelacic Square

Wherever you go in Zagreb, you’ll inevitably end up in the bustling Ban Jelacic Square, the center of modern Zagreb, commercial heart and favorite meeting point.

Observe the variety of architectural styles of the buildings around the square, from Biedermeier to Art Nouveau and Post-modernism, or sit in one of the many cafes for people-watching.

Visit Zagreb’s Cathedral

From the main square, head up to the Kaptol neighborhood to visit one of Zagreb’s symbols: the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – a beautiful Neo-Gothic cathedral from the late 19 th century.

Around the cathedral, you’ll find the interesting Renaissance defensive walls, built between 1512 and 1521 to protect the church from the Ottoman Turks. Next to the cathedral, you can also visit St Stephen’s Chapel, or admire the fountain of the Virgin Mary with Angels.

Taste local specialties at the Dolac Market

With big red umbrellas and small stands of juicy fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, and fish, the Dolac Market is another icon of Croatia’s capital. Held every day of the week, close to the Ban Jelacic Square and the Cathedral, this busy farmers’ market is known as “the belly of Zagreb”.

Find your way through the many stalls and enjoy the sights of the colorful and perfectly aligned fresh fruits and the smell of the newly picked vegetables.

Or join a food tour and taste the local specialties .

Explore the nightlife at Tkalciceva Street

Like any other Mediterranean capital, Zagreb has a vibrant nightlife and an interesting art and music scene, frequented by both locals and visitors.

For your first night in town, explore the popular Tkalciceva Street. Bursting with restaurants, cafes, and bars, Tkalciceva is perfect for an after-dinner coffee or drink al fresco or even a bar crawl.

Enter the Upper Town through the Stone Gate

Dedicate your second day in Zagreb to the Upper Town. To enter the Upper Town you have to go through the Stone Gate, the only old town gate still intact.

The Virgin Mary chapel located under the arch of the Stone Gate has been a place of pilgrimage since 1731 when a painting of the Virgin miraculously survived a devastating fire.

Discover St Mark’s Square

Passing through the Stone Gate, you’ll find yourself on St Mark’s Square, home of one of Zagreb’s best-known buildings – St Mark’s Church, famous for its roof tiles decorated with the coats of arms of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia and the city of Zagreb.

Located right in the center of St Mark’s Square, the 13th-century Romanesque Church of St Mark is surrounded by the Croatian Sabor or Parliament, and the Banski Dvori, the seat of the Croatian Government.

Visit the Museum of Broken Relationships

The Museum of Broken Relationships was one of my favorite experiences in Zagreb. This unusual museum, located in the Upper Town, displays love letters, photographs, personal diaries, and all sorts of quirky objects that remained as a memory of broken relationships.

All the pieces in the exhibition were donated to the museum by people from around the world, as a way to celebrate and immortalize a love story from their past.

Call me a weirdo, but I find the idea and concept behind this museum incredibly romantic.

Climb the Lotrscak Tower

Before finishing your Upper Town tour, make sure to climb the Lotrscak Tower for a magnificent 360º view of the city.

This medieval tower from the 13 th century is most famous for its canon, which is fired every day at noon. According to the legend, this centenary tradition started in the mid-15 th century, when the canon was fired one day at noon, to protect Zagreb from the Turks, who then got afraid and decided not to attack the city.

Nowadays, the locals set their watches on the sound of the shot heard every day at noon.

Take the Funicular back to the Lower Town

You can either walk or take the funicular back to the Lower Town. When I left the Lotrscak Tower, it suddenly started pouring rain so I opted for the short funicular trip, while enjoying the views over the wet city.

As I learned afterward, this Funicular Railway has actually a very interesting history. Built in 1888 and opened in 1890, the funicular was the first public transportation ever used in Zagreb.

With a total extension of 66 meters, and taking only 55 seconds to connect the Upper and Lower Towns, it’s also the shortest passenger cable railway in the world.

Explore the nightlife between Petra Preradovica Square and Bogoviceva Street

For your second night, explore the area between Petra Preradovica Square and Bogoviceva Street, with its many bars, sidewalk cafes, street performers, and occasional bands.

This is the favorite meeting spot in the Lower Town for festive spring and summer nights.

Take a day trip to the Plitvice Lakes National Park

Trust me when I say you absolutely have to visit this place if you ever find yourself in Croatia!

You can easily take a bus to the Plitvice Lakes from Zagreb’s main bus station as we did. The journey takes around 2,5 hours each way and costs about 100 Croatian Kuna (13.5 Euros) for a one-way ticket, but it’s totally worth the time and the money.

Or you can rent a car and get there on your own.

If you’d rather join an organized tour from Zagreb, here are some options:

Not even the rain stopped me from enjoying this incredible natural site of lush green forest, rousing waterfalls, and turquoise lakes.

• Read more about my day trip to the Plitvice Lakes

Shop at Ilica Street

You can’t possibly leave Zagreb without a shopping trip to Ilica’s high street stores.

Zagreb’s main street and commercial artery hides great deals, especially when compared with prices in Western European capitals. So take advantage of that and don’t go home with empty hands, or an empty suitcase.

Take a coffee with a view at Zagreb 360º

Take a pause and say goodbye to Zagreb enjoying its most spectacular view from the top of the Zagreb Skyscraper, at Ilica 1a.

Zagreb 360º  is an observation deck, bar, event venue, and the most visited tourist attraction in the capital of Croatia. And once you get up there, you immediately understand why.

The admission costs 30 Croatian Kuna (4 euros) for an adult, but the stunning view is priceless.

For me, this was truly a perfect end to a great time in lovely Zagreb.

Where to stay in Zagreb

Hotel international.

I stayed at the Hotel International , located in the business district, and a 10-minute tram ride from the city center.

I really recommend staying here, if you’re looking for good value for your money, meaning spacious, modern and comfortable rooms, good breakfast and restaurant service, and friendly and helpful staff.

Recommended restaurants in Zagreb

Stari fijaker.

I had dinner at this traditional Croatian restaurant on my first evening in Zagreb, after a recommendation from my hotel concierge, and was extremely pleased with the great food, welcoming staff, and relaxed atmosphere.

If you’d like to have a taste of authentic Croatian cuisine this is definitely the place to go. They even have a veggie menu, if you’re a vegetarian like me.

I loved everything about this place: the simple yet beautiful decoration, the cool vibe, and, most importantly, the mouthwatering vegan food. My Tempehritos were simply to die for, and my omnivore boyfriend loved his Bar-Bea Burger.

Even if you’re not a vegan or vegetarian, you should definitely give this place a try. I promise you won’t regret it!

Please don’t leave Zagreb without visiting this restaurant!

I accidentally stumbled upon Agava on my last evening in Zagreb, and couldn’t have asked for a better culinary experience.

I’m not even exaggerating when I say this was one of the best meals I ever had: superlative food, exquisite atmosphere, and a great price – what else can a girl ask for?

Of course, there are many other things to see and do in Zagreb, from markets and restaurants to museums, churches, and other attractions.

But if you’re planning a short stay in the city, before heading to the coast, exploring the Croatian islands, or simply returning back home, this Zagreb itinerary will give you an overview of all the major attractions, and hopefully make you schedule your trip right away.

More travel tips

Travel insurance.

SafetyWing – Travel insurance is very important and you should never leave home without it! I use and recommend SafetyWing travel medical insurance for travelers, remote workers, and nomads.

They cover overseas medical assistance in case of accident or illness, travel delay or interruption, lost checked luggage, emergency medical or political evacuation, natural disasters, and personal liability, at very competitive prices.

You can subscribe online here for a minimum of 5 days to a maximum of 364 days, or opt for a monthly subscription instead.

Cheap flights

Looking for the best airfare deals?  Skyscanner  is my favorite travel search engine for finding cheap flights around the world. They also offer  price tracking and alerts  to help you secure the best deals.

Accommodation

When it comes to accommodation,  Booking.com  is the best site out there. From hotels to apartments, resorts, villas, B&B, and guest houses, it offers the best prices for accommodation all over the world. I book the majority of my stays through them.

Yoga Retreats

Looking for a yoga retreat near home or in an exotic destination?  BookYogaRetreats  offers the best yoga retreats, holidays, and courses around the world for all budgets and levels of experience.

GetYourGuide  is my favorite platform for local tours, unique experiences, and skip-the-line tickets to attractions all around the world.

Klook  is another great resource for tours and activities, especially if you’re looking for things to do in Asia.

Car Rentals

Rentalcars.com  is a car rental search engine that compares the biggest brands in car hire and allows you to find the cheapest deals all around the world.

Have you been to or are you planning to visit Zagreb? What would you add to this 4 days in Zagreb itinerary? Share in the comments section below!

If you like it, Pin it!

About Vanda

I'm a Portuguese award-winning travel journalist and certified yoga teacher born in the Azores but Lisboner at heart. After 10 years as an expat in Switzerland, I now travel the world as a digital nomad, with 27 countries and 5 continents under my belt and counting. I share yoga-friendly and wellness travel advice based on my own experience and knowledge as an international yoga teacher, hiking enthusiast, surfer wannabe, and savvy solo traveler.

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Lindsey says

December 17, 2017 at 7:20 pm

All of this looks so fun! I am hoping to get to Croatia next year!

Lynne Nieman says

December 17, 2017 at 5:58 pm

Great post with some wonderful tips. The photos are beautiful. I have continued to hear such good things about Zagreb that I will definitely be sure to spend some time here when I finally get to Croatia.

December 17, 2017 at 2:00 pm

This makes me want to go even more, thanks for sharing this awesome blog about Zagreb!

December 16, 2017 at 3:38 pm

Hi from Croatia! I love reading what other people write about my country. 🙂 Enjoyed the read.

Travel Fidget says

December 16, 2017 at 11:54 am

Zagreb seems to be a hidden gem! I like your pictures, specially the old buildings and the Plitvice waterfalls!

March 14, 2017 at 12:33 pm

I´ve been to Croatia many times but never to Zagreb :O And I love the Plitvice Lakes? Did you know that there was one of the Winnetou movie series shot? The Treasure on a Silver Lake. Whenever I watch this movie, I recall my memories of holidays in Croatia 🙂

March 14, 2017 at 5:14 pm

No, I didn’t know that. I definitely have to watch it 🙂

Ashley says

March 10, 2017 at 1:21 pm

Lovely photos and great advice! Have also been to Croatia a couple of times but not Zagreb. Looks pretty!

March 10, 2017 at 3:14 pm

Thank you Ashley! Zagreb is great 🙂

March 6, 2017 at 4:32 pm

We’ve been to Croatia twice but never to Zagreb. We’ll definitely have to go back after reading your fun post!

March 8, 2017 at 4:18 pm

You definitely should! I loved Zagreb. I think it’s an underrated city, but it has lots of interesting things to do and see. Plus it’s beautiful!

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Home » Travel Guides » Croatia » 15 Best Things to Do in Zagreb (Croatia)

15 Best Things to Do in Zagreb (Croatia)

Zagreb is Croatia’s capital and largest city, marking the intersection between Eastern and Central Europe for more than a thousand years.

For a modern capital Zagreb has a kind of small-town charm, with an expansive old hilltop district of cobblestone streets and squares lit to this day by gas lamps.

Down the slope you’ll see Zagreb’s Viennese influence in the Lower Town, an area with 19th-century pavilions and manicured gardens that resemble the best of Prague or Budapest.

By day you can amble the pedestrian streets and park yourself at one of the many cafes, and by night you can paint the town red and see why those in the know make such a fuss of Zagreb’s nightlife.

Let’s explore the best things to do in in Zagreb :

One of Zagreb’s many curiosities is the way the old town developed as two separate hilltop settlements side-by-side. And their relationship wasn’t always friendly either! Kaptol and Gradec did not integrate for many hundreds of years.

Kaptol is where the clergy was based, the diocese of Zagreb being founded here back in 1094. The main landmark in Kaptol is Zagreb Cathedral, which dates to the city’s earliest year but was razed by the Mongols in the 1200s and then was damaged in a 19th-century earthquake.

Take a look at what remains of the cathedral’s fortifications, which were built when the building was used as an observation tower during the Ottoman wars.

This was the secular part of Zagreb’s medieval core, populated by artisans and tradesmen. Today it’s a quaint old district, ideal for walks as the cobblestone streets have been pedestrianised in recent years.

Culturally and politically the headline is St. Mark’s Square, where the Croatian Parliament and Constitutional Court are found. St. Mark’s Church gave the square its name and retains plenty of its original romanesque architecture, blended with later gothic additions in the 1300s.

At the top of Radićeva Street is Gradec’s last remaining town gate, which became a shrine to the Virgin Mary after an 18th-century fire destroyed the entire structure save for a painting of the Virgin (or so they say!).

3. Lower Town

Zagreb’s refined Lower Town was laid out in the 1800s and unlike the twisting alleys of the medieval core it’s all wide avenues and grand neo-classical buildings.

Lower Town is where the city’s more prestigious hotels are located, as well as much of its green space and several high-profile museums that we’ll come to in due course.

You could come for lunch at a cafe or for a spot of upmarket shopping and then take an easy walk through this leafy part of town.

4. Jelačić Square

Road traffic is also prohibited on this square, which is a gathering point for the modern city and is served by no fewer than seven of the city’s tram lines.

Here you’ll get the sense of Zagreb as a bustling place of business, full of office workers and shoppers, and you can people-watch from the table of a sidewalk cafe.

The square is named after 19th-century ruler, Count Josip Jelačić who was considered an expert military strategist.

His statue was erected in the square in the 1800s, but because Jelačić came to symbolise Croatian nationalism it was removed during communist times before being reinstated in 1990.

5. Go out in Tkalčićeva Street

Whether you’re in need of some live music at a bar or a good sit-down meal, Tkalčićeva should be your first port of call. It’s where Zagrebians go to enjoy themselves.

By day Tkalčićeva is a charming street of low-rise painted houses with balconies and awnings that you can appreciate on a romantic amble.

When the sun goes down you’ll have your pick of Zagreb’s best cafes, restaurants and nightspots.

If you want to pick up something to go, or have an elegant meal with a loved one, you’ll find what you’re looking for Tkalca.

6. Dolac Market

If you’re going self-catered then a visit to Zagreb’s daily farmers market is essential.

Open in the mornings, Dolac Market draws on regional farms, and is great place to buy meat, dairy products, vegetables and Croatian artisanal items, but it also brings in a fine array of fresh seafood from the coast.

Some locals describe Dolac as the “Belly of Zagreb”, and as much as anything it’s a great way to see how Zagrebians go about their day.

The stairway that leads off the marketplace will carry you to Optovina, which is the city’s main flower market.

7. Statue of Marija Jurić Zagorka

One of Croatia’s most celebrated modern cultural icons, Zagorka was the country’s first female journalist and a beloved author, born in 1873.

Her statue can be found on Tkalčićeva and she’s dressed in modest Edwardian garb, which clashes a little with the relaxed and trendy bars and cafes on this street.

Zagorka’s nineteen novels are still widely read to this day and many are set in Old Zagreb, for which she had an affinity.

At the height of her career she also founded Women’s Papers, a pioneering women’s magazine that was distributed throughout Austria-Hungary.

8. Mimara Museum

This Lower Town museum is named after the 20th-century art collector Ante Topić Mimara, who can best be described as a colourful character.

The permanent exhibits at the museum were donated by Miramar who was linked with art theft during the Second World War and also forgery after that.

Some critics claim that there are a number of fakes in the museum’s collection but it is still a good way to spend a couple of hours.

Works by Canaletto, Rubens, Holbein, Velazquez, Goya, Monet, Renoir and Degas are all on display here.

9. Archaeological Museum

Zagreb’s location at the historical meeting point between west and east has brought a host of civilisations to its door. So you can guess that a visit to the city’s archaeological museum is an intriguing trip through all kinds of eras and cultures.

One of the best pieces here is the Vučedol Dove, a ritual vessel that dates back to at least 2500 BC. There’s also Liber Linteus, an Etruscan mummy from the 3rd century BC, which was wrapped with bandages that contain the longest Etruscan text in the world.

Most of the text hasn’t even been translated as so little is known about the language.

10. Pick up a Licitar

Out and about in Zagreb you may notice that the city is fond of its red hearts. They’ll appear on leaflets, shop signs and almost anywhere else you care to look.

These refer to Licitars, a traditional symbol of Zagreb. They are a kind of honey dough cookie that take several weeks to prepare.

After the heart-shaped cookies are finally baked and cooled they are painted with a glossy and edible red enamel, and intricately decorated with piped patterns and messages.

So deeply rooted is the craft that Licitars are recognised by UNESCO as being representative of northern Croatian culture. So that’s your souvenir sorted!

11. Lenuci Horseshoe

If you needed a reminder that you’re in the former Austro-Hungarian empire, this handsome series of squares, fountains and grand buildings will make it clear enough.

The Horseshoe wouldn’t look out of place in Vienna or Budapest, and more than merits a saunter at any time of year.

The project takes its name from its 19th-century designer Milan Lenuci and forms a u-shape in Zagreb’s Lower Town.

Two attractions in the Horseshoe include the Botanical Garden, collecting 10,000 plant species from around the world, and the elaborate Croatian National Theatre, Zagreb’s premier venue for ballet, opera and drama.

12. Jarun Lake

Zagreb is quite a long way inland, so when things get hot in summer Jarun Lake picks up the slack.

It welcomes a huge range of leisure activities, from competitive rowing and kayaking to skateboarding and cycling,  but is also fine if you just want to take it easy and cool off at the lake’s pebble beaches.

Zagreb also comes to Jarun for some nightlife, and there are a number of bars and nightclubs on the lakeshore. If you plan ahead and are in town in late-June then the INmusic festival takes place here.

13. Museum of Broken Relationships

This museum is devoted to break-ups. If that doesn’t seem like everyone’s idea of a good time you can rest assured that this attraction is as amusing as it is poignant.

There’s a kind of therapeutic purpose to the exhibits, which have been donated to the museum by lovelorn people from around the world.

So what you’ll find is a large collection of seemingly random items, each accompanied by a panel explaining their significance to a relationship that didn’t work out or ended in a tragic way.

The effect is often humorous but you may come away a bit weepy and certain that you won’t have seen anything like it before.

14. Samobor

Between Zagreb and the Slovenian border is a delightful medieval town that has been a tourist destination for almost 200 years.

A lot of the architecture in Samobor is from the baroque era, and if you visit the town’s museum you’ll enter a building where the composer Franz Liszt spent a night in 1846.

Samobor is ringed by wooded hills and in no more than ten minutes you can make your way up Tepec Hill to see the ruins of Samobor Castle.

Much of this fortress remains in place and you can easily trace its moat, outer walls and gatehouse.

15. Karlovac

Around 45 minutes southwest of Zagreb is a splendid little town that was built from nothing in the 16th century to stand as an Austrian outpost against the Ottoman advance.

Karlovac represented state-of-the-art military planning, as you’ll be able to see in the Old Town. The citadel, where much of the town’s heritage remains, still bears the outline of its innovative six-pointed star defensive system, even though the original walls are long gone.

In Croatia Karlovac is known as the “City of Parks”, and this is partly because the trenches and moats that once surrounded the city walls have never been developed, so you can stretch your legs in the pasture, forest and gardens left behind.

15 Best Things to Do in Zagreb (Croatia):

• Jelačić Square
• Go out in Tkalčićeva Street
• Dolac Market
• Statue of Marija Jurić Zagorka
• Mimara Museum
• Archaeological Museum
• Pick up a Licitar
• Lenuci Horseshoe
• Museum of Broken Relationships

Croatia Travel Guides

Your one-stop travel guide for Croatia

Travel Guides · September 26, 2024

The Perfect 3 Days In Zagreb Itinerary

Looking for the ultimate Zagreb experience? Discover our perfect 3-day itinerary packed with must-see sights, local flavors, and hidden gems!

I spent three days in Zagreb, Croatia’s center, and discovered it’s a hidden treasure. Tourists frequently avoid it for seaside destinations.

Food and craft beer are thriving, museums are everywhere, and artisan businesses decorate the city. Urban noise is balanced with parks, promenades, and green strolling pathways in Zagreb.

This 3-day itinerary will let you enjoy this charming city’s markets and wine. Let Zagreb captivate you!

Is 3 Days in Zagreb Enough?

I spent three days exploring the Upper Town and Lower Town’s cobblestone streets, finding hidden beauties everywhere.

Three days was enough to enjoy Zagreb’s distinctive combination of Central European elegance and Mediterranean charm. I loved the Austro-Hungarian architecture, street art, and cafés. Three days is enough to fall in love with this diverse city.

Best Time to Visit Zagreb

My favorite season to visit Zagreb is June–September when the city comes alive. July and August have the warmest weather but also the most people.

You must check the weather prediction before going since it may rain. You can wander Zagreb’s lovely streets, enjoy coffee at outdoor cafés, and explore parks.

Day 1: Visit the Upper Town

Day 1 in Zagreb begins in the Upper Town, where beauty and history are instantly apparent.  From history to culture to tranquil getaways, Upper Town has it all.

Breakfast at Caffe Bars Domus

Caffe Bars Domus is an excellent place to start the day in the city center. The menu of typical bar and pub food includes something for everyone, from light snacks to big meals. I enjoy a cup of freshly made coffee with its rich scent.

I was struck by the flickering light of many candles on the centuries-old walls as I neared the entrance. Once part of Zagreb’s medieval walls, this eastern gate is today its holiest shrine.

It was emotional, especially since the community prays the rosary here every Tuesday at 8 PM. I felt accepted at the spiritual gathering despite not being from here. Passing through the gate links Zagreb’s Upper and Lower Towns.

Museum of Broken Relationships

Without knowing what to anticipate, Zagreb’s Museum of Broken Relationships felt like an exhibition of human emotions. The modest yet meaningful things on exhibit conveyed stories of lost love and broken relationships.

Each artwork, with a personal story, transported me to strangers’ lives but felt familiar. The craziness made me chuckle, but I also felt nostalgia and empathy.

Lotrscak Tower

On the small wooden staircase, I almost felt history with every step. I had the best view of the city from the top, with infinite red-tiled rooftops, Lower Town’s busy streets, and Medvednica Mountain in the distance. After the ascent, the panoramic view was a reward, and I had to take a picture.

Lunch at Plac Kitchen & Grill

Plac Kitchen & Grill , a Croatian barbecue hotspot, was my lunch spot. I was immediately tempted by the smell of sizzling meats when I entered. I’ve never eaten cevapi like theirs perfectly grilled, juicy, and flavorful.

Dolac Market

I entered Dolac Market to find a sea of red parasols shielding the busy merchants. The air smelled like fresh produce, and I couldn’t avoid admiring the colorful stuff. I eagerly grabbed some Zagorje cottage cheese and cream, a local favorite, as I browsed the rows.

Cathedral of Zagreb

Seeing the Cathedral of Zagreb’s 108-meter spires dominating the skyline, I was in awe. This renowned building in Kaptol showcases Croatia’s architectural heritage.

I felt history under the gigantic bells, the greatest of which weighs about 6,500 kg. Every part of the church conveyed a narrative, and its spiritual and cultural significance impacted everyone.

Sunset at Park Opatovina

I stroll through the tranquil Park Opatovina, where history and nature combine, as the sun sets. With its picturesque Cistercian monastic heritage, the park seems like going back in time.

The public promenade, originally six large gardens reaching to the western Kaptol wall, is now a peaceful spot to ponder. In summer, the park hosts concerts and theatrical plays.

Dinner at The Bull Grill & Steakhouse

I went to The Bull Grill & Steakhouse, a meat lover’s paradise, for a wonderful Dubrovnik evening. I ordered T-bone steak and ribs, both cooked well. Our T-bone was soft, juicy, and well seasoned, and our ribs were fall-off-the-bone delicious with a smokey taste that remained.

Day 2: Go to the Lower Town

I visited Donji Grad, Zagreb’s busy Lower Town, on my second day. History and modernity merge harmoniously. Each corner showed new cafés, modest boutiques, and street art that modernized this old district.

Lively yet not overpowering, the streets were ideal for exploration and relaxation. I felt like I had experienced Zagreb’s essence at the conclusion of my tour. If you want to experience the capital’s culture, visit Lower Town!

Sip a Cup of Coffee at Monocycle Specialty Coffee

I started my second day in Zagreb at Monocycle Specialty Coffee , a hidden treasure with the greatest coffee in town. This modest café on a picturesque square is ideal for breakfast.

King Tomislav Square

I was immediately drawn to the center’s towering equestrian monument of King Tomislav, Croatia’s first ruler. The square’s majestic Art Pavilion and bustling Central Station provide a wonderful balance of history and peace.

The area attracts locals and tourists, yet it never seems packed or hurried. I enjoyed the Art Pavilion’s ornate architecture and tranquil mood despite the city’s activity as I walked around.

Lenuci’s Green Horseshoe

The most effective way to explore Lower Town is this Milan Lenuci-designed U-shaped green belt. Each park blends into the next, providing a tranquil urban retreat. Zrinjevac Park’s fountains and statues were shaded by tall trees when I started my trek.

Mimara Museum

With approximately 3,700 pieces, the museum’s collection is overwhelming. I spent hours admiring Goya, Velazquez, and Rubens’ works, amazed by their ability.

The museum has French Impressionist artworks and antique Chinese jade and ceramics from ages and countries. My favorite was a Botticelli with vibrant colors that still stand out.

Lunch at Muzej Restaurant and Café

After a long morning of touring, I stopped at Muzej Restaurant and Café for lunch. The restaurant’s gorgeous museum setting seemed like a metropolitan paradise.

I ordered the set lunch, which came with plenty of fried fish and crispy potatoes, well seasoned and wonderful. The salad was light and refreshing after the heavy tomato soup.

Zagreb Ethnographic Museum

I started my Croatian traditions tour on the first level, where Pannonian, Dinaric, and Adriatic traditional costumes caught my eye.

Colorful designs, complex lacework, and centuries-old rituals were unique to each location. While admiring the intricate instruments, I nearly heard traditional music.

Modern temporary exhibitions offered new insights into cultural interactions. The museum seems like a treasure trove with over 85,000 pieces, although just a small portion is on exhibit.

Croatian National Theatre

The building’s golden façade offers a teaser of its splendor inside. When the lights dimmed for a live concert, I was entirely absorbed in the environment.

No CGI, no special effects only the raw skill of the performers, who appeared to change before my eyes. The elaborate costumes and stage design transported me to another time and place.

Kallina House

I couldn’t resist visiting Zagreb’s Secessionist Kallina House while walking. I saw the building’s vivid ceramic tiles, each carefully created and placed to form gorgeous floral and geometric designs, as I approached.

This Vjekoslav Bastl-designed mansion for businessman Josip Kallina is a living piece of art that blends usefulness and aesthetic innovation.

I could understand how this structure broke with traditional designs due to its Viennese influence. Architecture lovers will enjoy the Kallina House as an experience. The Croatian Ministry of Culture protects the Kallina House.

Academy of Music

I couldn’t miss visiting Zagreb’s famous Academy of Music in the city center. I saw the building’s remarkable modern façade, which combined Zagreb’s cultural past with modernity.

I liked how it mix history and modernity to inspire new artists. If you love music or want to learn about Croatia’s musical origins, visit the Academy of Music in Zagreb.

Enjoy the Sunset at Rokov Park

As the sun fell, I went to Rokov Park, a lovely hilltop park between Zagreb’s Lower and Upper Town. The hill’s stunning outlook and the park’s tranquility were the perfect escape from the busy streets below.

As I walked along Rokov Perivoj Street, I saw the outstanding art nouveau decorations on mansions like Villa Frangeš and Villa Auer.

Dinner at SOI Fusion Bar

I had a fantastic evening at SOI Fusion Bar , where Asian and contemporary food merge. A colorful yet calm ambiance with modern design and gentle lighting created the right scene for a memorable supper.

Their katsu chicken was delicious—crispy outside, soft within, and topped with a tangy sour sauce that offered a bite. My appetite was satisfied by the big quantity.

Elevate Your Nightlife at The Swanky Bar

After touring Zagreb, I visited Swanky Bar to experience its nightlife. I was immediately drawn to this laid-back, edgy pub in the city.

The DJ took over as the night went on, turning the area into a vibrant local and tourist hangout. I ordered a signature drink, which was as unique as the bar. The personnel made the experience personal and pleasant.

Day 3: Hike the Mount Medvednica

I hiked Mount Medvednica, a short drive from Zagreb’s busy center, for fresh air and a respite. I could sense the peace as soon as I got out of the car into the fresh mountain air.

Caffe Bar Janje

I visited Ziggy’s Coffee before starting my day. I was drawn in by the pleasant environment and the kind staff’s smiles.

My cappuccino was smooth, thick, and just the proper amount of froth one of the best in the city. I had their Mramorni, a Croatian marble dessert, while waiting and was impressed.

Join a Guided Tour to Mount Medvednica

I met my guide at Ziggy’s Coffee Centar to start my journey. The guided Mount Medvednica trip was the best way to see the peak without planning. We began with the new Medvednica Mountain cable car, which took us to the summit with stunning views.

The guide’s insightful explanations about the region’s history and natural beauty made the climb more pleasurable. At the peak, we stopped at Zagreb’s most popular viewpoint, where I took in the city’s views.

The tastes were delicious and reflected the area’s culinary tradition. We visited the world’s shortest funicular, an unexpected and pleasant highlight of our journey. The guided tour was well-paced, educational, and full of surprises, perfect for seeing Mount Medvednica’s magnificence.

Medvedgrad Castle

I had to see Medvedgrad Castle on the southern slopes of Mount Medvednica. As I reached the stronghold, which has dominated Zagreb’s suburbs since the 13th century, I felt its history. The castle route was a quiet walk through beautiful foliage with views of the city below.

Take a Picture of Zagreb’s Vibrant Streets on Your Way Down

As I descended from Mount Medvednica, I stopped to photograph Zagreb’s lively streets. The multicolored roofs, twisting lanes, and vibrant squares made the city glow from this angle.

While walking down, I went through Zagreb’s most exclusive districts, each home more attractive than the next with lush gardens and ivy-covered walls.

As I approached the city, everything felt more alive. I photographed Zagreb’s creative energy by photographing street art on various buildings. I saw beautiful, comfortable cafes and businesses along the road.

Dinner at Restoran Lanterna na Dolcu

After a long day of visiting Zagreb, I relaxed at Restoran Lanterna na Dolcu , a hidden gem near Dolac Market.

After entering, I was immediately drawn to the subterranean dining area’s stone walls and comfortable atmosphere. The wine selection was broad, and I started my evening with a glass of Croatian wine, which went well with the Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.

Where to Stay In Zagreb

Budget hotels in zagreb.

Rooms 23 was a hidden gem for budget tourists, giving a pleasant lodging with a nice patio and garden to rest after a day of touring.

How to book

For the latest rate, click here.

Timeout Heritage Hotel Zagreb

Timeout Heritage Hotel Zagreb, where I had a delicious breakfast on their balcony each morning and evening cocktails in the bar, was another wonderful cheap alternative.

Mid-Range Hotels in Zagreb

Hotel president.

Hotel President, with its lush garden and chic bar, grabbed my attention for a midrange stay where I spent a few calm days.

Hotel Le Premier

On another trip, I chose Hotel Le Premier, which is more luxurious but affordable. I enjoyed starting my days at the exercise center and eating wonderful meals from room service.

Luxury Hotels in Zagreb

Esplanade zagreb hotel.

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel is the city’s most luxurious hotel. You’ll feel like royalty from the time you arrive, with two magnificent restaurants and a breakfast feast that made my stay unforgettable. My visit was amazing due to the 5-star service and luxurious rooms and bar.

Art’otel Zagreb

Art’otel Zagreb, another luxury hotel, with an indoor pool for unwinding after a day of sightseeing. The restaurant featured exquisite food, and the bar was relaxing.

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Zagreb Travel Grabs The Guardian’s Attention

Lauren Simmonds

July 4, 2023

July the 4th, 2023 – The capital has managed to grab The Guardian’s attention. The British publication has placed Zagreb travel for younger people on a very positive list.

As Poslovni Dnevnik writes, the British newspaper The Guardian recently published a list of the best destinations for young travellers , and Zagreb travel is firmly on it. There are a total of nine cities on the list, meaning that Zagreb found itself listed alongside El Palmar, Biarritz, Granada, Lisbon and others, as N1 reports .

The Guardian showers praise on “pocket-sized” Zagreb

The Guardian writes: The Croatian capital is the perfect “pocket size” city, says Ivana Shiell of the country’s tourist board. It’s walkable and is said to have the highest number of museums per square metre in Europe. Stroll around the narrow cobblestone streets of the historic upper town: in summer, there are regular open-air concerts and stalls, and every year for 10 days in July (12-23 this year), the  Courtyards festival  opens up some of the area’s palatial buildings to the public.

Year round, there’s the landmark Zagreb cathedral and the much-loved  Museum of Broken Relationships , which was set up by two artists – and exes – as an ode to all the strange and funny objects left behind after breakups. Other quirky offerings include the  Cannabis Museum , which opened last year and is boldly placed opposite the city’s police headquarters, as well as the  Chocolate Museum , and the  Croatian Museum of Naive Art .

Browse street art and vintage shops at Martićeva Street, nab a gablec (cut-price lunch) at eateries around the Dolac farmer’s market, and take a nature break at Maksimir park. The restaurants, bars and nightclubs on Tkalčićeva Street attract locals and tourists; get an ice-cream and coffee there in the day, and drinks in the evenings. Croatia’s most popular attraction, the emerald-green lakes and waterfalls of  Plitvice lakes national park , is a two-hour drive from the city. Buses to the park run from Zagreb daily, and some hostels, such as the  Chillout Hostel (from €35 a night) , arrange day trips for guests.

Zagreb travel is becoming more and more appealing in summer

Not so long ago, Zagreb was a ghost town during the hot summer months as we residents flocked to the coast for our annual holidays. This is still more or less the case now, but it is becoming less so thanks to the up and coming Zagreb becoming a tourist destination of its own, and not to mention thanks to Ryanair’s Zagreb Airport base which facilitates cheap Zagreb travel throughout the year. Read more here for what you can find in a typically much emptier Zagreb during the sweltering Croatian summer .

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How to Spend a Perfect One Day in Zagreb

Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links to the products we earnestly love and recommend, meaning at no extra cost to you, we might make a teeny-weeny commission if you click on the link and decide to buy something. The money will be used to sustain this little cozy blog we call our virtual home.

Okay. So, you’ve planned to spend one day in Zagreb but are confused about what to do in the city just in a day. Don’t sweat it. I’ve got your back. Our Zagreb itinerary will help you explore the best of Zagreb in 24 hours.

The charming capital of Croatia mostly remains overshadowed by its coastal counterparts viz. Dubrovnik , Split , and the Croatian Islands like Vis and Travelers give this beautiful inland city a miss to rush for the glimmering coastline that Croatia is known for.

I’m glad you’ve added Zagreb to your Croatia Itinerary . It seems Zagreb finally has been getting its due.

Related Read: Best Places to Visit in Croatia

One Day in Zagreb Itinerary

To make the most of your 24 hours in Zagreb, it’s important to know the way the city is laid out. It saves time and hassle, especially when you are short on time.

To give you an idea, Zagreb is divided into two halves, Zagreb Upper Town (Gornji Grad) and Zagreb Lower Town (Donji Grad).

The Upper Town is all about the medieval architecture lined along the narrow winding cobbled streets. In contrast, the wide boulevards, spacious urban spaces, and modern architecture are the centerpiece of the Lower Town.

Most of the popular tourist attractions are located in the old part of Zagreb . So, if you’ve just a day in Zagreb, it’s best to concentrate on the old town.

We’ve crafted 1 day Zagreb itinerary in a way that includes almost all the best things to do in the city in one day.

If you find a self-guided walking tour difficult or you are a history lover and are keen to know the fascinating tales and legends that define Zagreb, it’s best to join a private or group walking tour with a local guide. We recommend this tour as it includes most of the must-see attractions in Zagreb.

8 am: Breakfast @ Otto & Frank

Get a great start to your day in Zagreb with a delicious and healthy breakfast at Otto & Frank .

Located right on Tkalciceva Street in the city center, this bistro is famous for its Zagreb Breakfast, an all-day breakfast platter.

9 am: Check Out Ban Josip Jelacic Square

After a hearty breakfast, begin your exploration from the heart of the city. Ban Josip Jelacic Square, the main city square is always buzzing with life.

Dotted with lofty modern buildings, restaurants, cafes, and shops – the square is the primary junction for trams and pedestrians.

The huge statue of Ban Josip Jelaci c, erstwhile governor of Croatia graces the square.

Walk to the other end of the square, toss a coin in the Mandusevac Fountain , and make a wish. Because you never know!

Read More: One Day in Dubrovnik Itinerary

9:30 am: Drink in the Best Views Over the City from Zagreb 360°

Located right on the famous shopping street of Ilica, bordering Ban Josip Jelacic Square is a plain-looking building that once (former Yugoslavia) was the most modern building – Zagreb Neboder or Zagreb Skyscraper .

You’d not even imagine what the top (16th) floor of the otherwise ordinary-looking high-rise building holds.

It houses the Zagreb 360° Observation Deck or Zagreb Eye that’s best known for its eye-catching views over the city of Zagreb and beyond.

Enjoy your morning cup of coffee while ogling at the beautiful view from its rooftop terrace bar and cafe and then come back in the evening and drink in the night views with a pint of beer. Isn’t it amazing?

The ticket is valid for an entire day. You can visit as many times as you want.

Note: Zagreb 360° is temporarily closed to the public.

10 am: Shop Local Flavors at Dolac Market

Dolac is the biggest open-air local farmers’ market in Zagreb. It’s difficult to miss it because you can spot the bright red umbrellas from the main square.

Operating since 1930, the stalls at the market sell fresh and local produce. From meat, local fish, bakery items, dairy items, and flowers, to fruit and veggies, and traditional souvenirs.

The market operates from 7 am to 3 pm from Monday to Saturday and 7 am to 1 pm on Sundays .

10:30 am: Admire Zagreb Cathedral

A short uphill walk from the main square leads you to Kaptol Square . The square is home to the grand Zagreb Cathedral .

Dating back to the 11th century, the Neo-Gothic cathedral with its soaring twin towers looks incredibly beautiful. The interiors are just as impressive.

The cathedral has endured quite a few renovations over the years to preserve it to its past glory. In fact, the restoration work was going on during our visit.

11 am: Ride the Funicular to Upper Town

You can walk uphill to explore the remaining attractions of the Upper Town but how can you miss the fun of riding the world’s shortest funicular  (66m) and  Zagreb’s oldest means of public transportation ?

The ride takes a little less than 60 seconds!

The funicular runs every 10 minutes from 6:30 to 22:00 every day and costs 4 HRK per adult one way . The kids up to 7 years go free. If you have a Zagreb Card , the ride comes free.

11:30 pm: Walk along the Peaceful Strossmayer Promenade

Stroll along the lush green haven called Strossmayer Promenade aka Zagreb Stross .

It’s so quiet here. Plus, the panoramic views of the city from the promenade are an add-on.

As you stroll along the promenade, stop by the silver statue of the famous Croatian poet, Antun Gustov Matos gracefully sitting on a bench.

12 pm: Watch Out for the Noon Gric Cannon shot at Lotrscak Tower

It’s time for Noon Gric Cannon Shot .

Lotrscak Tower is a medieval tower that fires a cannon every day over the city exactly at noon supposedly to celebrate the victory of Zagreb over the Turks. The tradition goes back to about 1877.

Climb the narrow steps to reach the lookout post and be fascinated by the birds-eye view over Zagreb.

12:30 pm: Let Your Emotions be Evoked at Museum of Broken Relationships

Zagreb is known for its unique museums and the Museum of Broken Relationships is no different.

It’s one of the quirkiest museums I’ve ever visited.

The museum dearly treasures the items that are remnants of love and relationships that failed each accompanied by a story, some sad, some heartwarming, and some funny.

Know that you will go through a range of emotions.

Visit the official website for updated hours and ticket prices.

1:30 pm: Lunch @ Stari Fijaker 900

A little about 400m walk from the museum is a lovely restaurant, Stari Fijaker .

If (of course you must) you want to try traditional Croatian food, it’s your best bet.

2:30 pm: Marvel at the Beauty of St. Mark’s Church

Not as grand as Zagreb Cathedral, St. Mark’s Church with its signature polychromed tiled roof remains the icon and a poster child of Zagreb.

The colorful roof adorns the coats of arms of the city of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia, and Dalmatia.

Dominating St. Mark’s Square, the church is one of the oldest monuments in Zagreb.

You can witness the stunning interiors only during the daily mass that takes place at 6 pm from Monday to Friday , 7:30 am on Saturdays , and 10:30 am to 6 pm on Sundays .

If you happen to visit between April and October , plan a visit to the church during weekends at noon to attend the changing of the guard ceremony .

Note: If you are visiting Zagreb just for a day, you’d have to choose if you want to watch the cannon firing at Lotrscak Tower or witness the changing of the guard ceremony at St. Mark’s Church.

3:30 pm: Walk Through the Stone Gate

The Stone Gate is the only preserved medieval town gate out of the four gates. It’s used as a passageway from Upper Town to Lower Town and vice versa.

But it’s not just a gate. Its archway is home to a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, a guardian saint of Zagreb.

In fact, the Stone Gate Chapel is Zagreb’s most important sacred and religious site .

The chapel hosts a painting of the Virgin Mary with a child that remained undamaged during the great fire of 1731 in Gradec. Locals believe the painting protects Zagreb from troubles and always answers the prayers.

4 pm: Walk the Gric Tunnel

Close to the Stone Gate is the Gric Tunnel. Set up in 1943, during World War II to be used as a bomb shelter, the tunnel was opened to the public after a renovation in 2016.

Admission to the tunnel is free and open from 9 am to 9 pm .

5 pm: Stroll Tkalciceva Street and Stop By One of its Many Cafes

It’s time to head down to a lovely pedestrian street, Tkalciceva, Zagreb’s vibrant and bohemian heart.

Sprinkled with chic boutiques, traditional shops, cafes, and restaurants – it’s an ideal place to drop in for a much-needed coffee break.

The Cookie Factory is your answer. Order a steaming hot cup of coffee and pair it with delicious cookies. Just so you know, the cafe is celebrated for its luscious mix of brownies and ice cream.

6 pm: Shopping at Ilica Street

Ilica Street is one of the longest (over 6 km long) shopping streets in Zagreb. From expensive high-end brands to reasonably priced and cheap items, the street has something for everyone.

There are a ton of restaurants, cafes, bakeries, and bars along the way.

You can walk the entire length of the street and take a tram back to the main square.

8 pm: Dinner @ La Struk

We loved dining at La Struk and thus, recommend it to our readers.

PS: They serve the best ever Strukli, a traditional Croatian specialty.

Other Beautiful Places to Add to Your Zagreb Itinerary

Our Zagreb one-day itinerary covers almost all the best places to visit in Zagreb without you feeling rushed. Still, there are a few places we’d recommend you visit.

No. I’m not suggesting these extra attractions because I want you to cram your itinerary but because I want you to know that certain places are worth a visit provided you have time and energy.

You can easily transform our itinerary for Zagreb by removing the places that don’t fascinate you and swapping them with the ones that you find worthy as per your travel style.

Croatian National Theater

Commissioned in 1895 by Franz Joseph I, the Croatian National Theatre aka HNK Zagreb is an architectural masterpiece and a core of the performing arts scene in Zagreb.

You can experience drama, opera, and ballet performances here.

Apart from being an important cultural landmark, the saffron-colored building is also a major architectural landmark. A saffron-colored building with impressive neo-baroque architecture is a delight to look at.

Art Pavilion

The oldest in Southeast Europe, a gorgeous bright yellow colored art gallery, Art Pavilion is strategically located on the Lenuci Horseshoe (a unique U-shaped green belt of Zagreb that comprises the city squares with urban parks in Lower Town) with Nikola Subic Zrinski Square in its south and King Tomislav Square in its north.

Crafted using metal frame techniques, the building looks arresting. It deserves a visit even if you are not planning on checking out the art exhibitions it hosts.

Mirogoj Cemetery

Who’d want to visit a cemetery? But how can you not when it’s as mesmerizing as Mirogoj!

Located outside the city center, on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, Mirogoj with its seemingly endless arcades draped by lush climbing ivy is utterly gorgeous and peaceful.

The location, the architecture, the surroundings, the history, the vibes – everything adds to the beauty and significance of the cemetery.

Ironically, it’s one of the most attractive and instagrammable places in Zagreb. In fact, it’s often counted as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe .

Planning a Trip to Zagreb: Practical Details

You should know certain things about Croatia’s capital city before you plan a trip.

Our First Timer’s Guide to Visiting Zagreb gives you tons of crucial information about planning a trip to Zagreb.

You must imbibe the information at the early planning stages as it will largely influence how your Zagreb travel itinerary comes together.

Read More: How to Plan a Trip to Europe

Visa for Zagreb

Most countries enjoy visa-free travel to Croatia. You can check here if you need a visa for Croatia or not.

Countries who require a visa for Croatia can fill out the visa application form online at  crovisa.mvep.hr and submit it to the competent Croatian Embassy or Consulate or visa center or through an accredited tourist agency along with other required documents.

Indians with a multiple-entry Schengen Visa don’t need a separate visa for Croatia.

Read Next: The Blue Cave in Croatia

How Many Days in Zagreb

It’s not easy to say how many days exactly you need to explore a particular city or country because it all depends upon your travel style and taste but we can give you an idea based on our perspective.

Is one day in Zagreb enough? One day in Zagreb is enough to uncover its soul. Zagreb is amazingly walkable, making exploring easy and fun without feeling rushed. Thus, you can effortlessly cover the highlights of Zagreb in 24 hours.

With 2 days in Zagreb, you can go beyond the Upper Town and explore other attractions in Lower Town.

3 days in Zagreb allow you to wander off the beaten path. You can discover beautiful sights like Mirogoj Cemetery a bit away from the center of Zagreb, maybe relax at its oldest urban park Maksimir, or hike the famous Mount Medvednica.

With 4 days in Zagreb or more, you not only get time to take in the feel of the city at a leisurely pace but you can also take a day trip or two from the capital of Croatia. Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of the best day trip destinations from Zagreb.

What’s the Best Time to Visit Zagreb?

Don’t plan around June and July because those are the busiest months. It’s when the tourist crowds, temperature, hotels, and flight prices – everything shoots up!

The autumn months of September are ideal to visit Zagreb. It’s the beautiful time of year when days are short, the air is crisp and cool, Mother nature joyfully displays gorgeous autumn foliage, fewer tourists, and the hotel and flight prices are remarkably low. In short, it’s a perfect time to visit Zagreb.

Zagreb is also a sight to behold during Christmastime .

Where to Stay in Zagreb?

With a plethora of accommodation options in Zagreb for every budget and travel style, choosing where to stay in the city is easy.

Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town) are the best areas to stay in Zagreb. Naturally, most of the top attractions are located in and around these areas.

We recommend Hotel Esplanade and Hotel Le Premier for luxury travelers, Rooms Zagreb 17 and Art Hotel Like for budget travelers, and Feels Like Home Apartments for travelers who seek a home-like atmosphere even while traveling.

Airbnb is also a good option, especially for families traveling with kids. We stayed on  Bianca&Marko’s  property and loved every bit of our stay. It’s fairly close to the center of the city yet away from all the hustle and bustle of it.

Related Read: Best Things to do in Zadar

How to Get to Zagreb?

Zagreb is well-connected to the rest of the world by air and the European countries and other Croatian cities by air, road, and rail.

Franjo Tuđman Airport serves the Craotian capital of Zagreb. There are no direct flights from the USA, South America, India, Australia, and Africa. Toronto, Doha, Dubai, and a good deal of European countries have direct flights to Zagreb.

We use and recommend  Skyscanner to get the best deals on flights.

If you are coming from the nearby countries in Europe or from the other cities in Croatia, you can choose to travel by bus, train, or car.

I’d highly recommend renting a car if you are visiting Zagreb as a part of a larger European itinerary like ours. We visited Europe for a month and covered parts of Croatia, Slovenia, Slovakia, Austria, the Czech Republic, and Hungary.

We  rented a car for our European adventure . The ease, freedom, and fun that come with having your own vehicle are unmatched.

Our 2-hour road journey from Ljubljana to Zagreb allowed us to discover the charming town of Samobor on the way. See, how having your own car gives you the flexibility to change your plans and stop wherever your heart wants to.

If you rent a car, make sure to book a hotel or Airbnb with a car parking facility. You’ll have to leave your car in the hotel or Airbnb parking because you can’t explore the city in a car. Parking is a hassle and expensive in Zagreb like in any other European city.

We use and recommend Trainline,  Eurail ,  RailEurope ,  Omio , and FlixBus to book trains and buses in Europe and  Discover Cars  to rent a car in Europe.

Related Read: First Timer’s Guide to Split, Croatia

How to Get Around Zagreb?

Zagreb is best explored on foot if you stick to the city center and the old part of the city.

Another beautiful way to explore the city is on a bike. You can either hire a bike or can join one of the many biking tours in Zagreb.

If you wish to venture out of the city center then Zagreb’s integrated public transport network of trams and buses helps you a great deal.

Local Taxi (Cammeo Taxi, Radio Taxi, and Eko Taxi) and Uber also operate in Zagreb.

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2 thoughts on “How to Spend a Perfect One Day in Zagreb”

very good blog indeed ! How much is a bike tour ? Any clue ?

Is it possible to do a Plitvice Lakes and Zadar by a day tour through a tour company from Zagreb ?

Thank you for your kind words! The cost of a bike tour can vary depending on the location, duration, and the tour company you choose. On average, you might expect to pay anywhere from $50 to $70. It’s always best to check with specific tour operators for the most accurate pricing. Here are some of the most highly-rated tours you can consider:

https://gyg.me/Yg1qtthC https://gyg.me/K1YAn7K0 https://gyg.me/Cy26eutv

Regarding your question about visiting Plitvice Lakes and Zadar from Zagreb in one day through a tour company – it’s not really feasible to do both Zadar and Plitvice Lakes on a day tour. It’s best to focus on just Plitvice Lakes for a day trip. Here’s one highly rated tour that takes you to Plitvice as well as Rastoke on a day trip: https://gyg.me/KavbMJz4

In fact, I highly recommend spending a night near Plitvice Lakes to fully enjoy the park without feeling rushed or getting caught in tourist traffic. This way, you can truly take in the natural beauty of the area at a more relaxed pace. The park is beautiful and it deserves your time.

If you want to visit Zadar as well, there is a private tour that allow you to explore Plitvice Lakes from Zagreb and then drop you off in Zadar, like this one: https://gyg.me/hclouRi7 . A bit expensive, this option lets you enjoy both destinations without feeling too hurried.

If you’re comfortable driving, renting a car is the best option. It lets you explore at your own pace and enjoy the flexibility of visiting both Plitvice Lakes and Zadar without being tied to a tour schedule.

By the way, the links I’ve shared are affiliate links, which means I might earn a little commission if you use them, at no extra cost to you 🙂

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A Travel Guide To Zagreb Croatia

The capital city and the largest town in Croatia, Zagreb is Croatia’s economic, political and educational center. With about 800.000 residents in the metro area of Zagreb, Zagreb is one of the smallest European capital cities.

It’s a typical central European city, with an interesting although turbulent history and a nice and laid-back vibe. The first mention of Zagreb dates back to 1094 .

Zagreb originally existed as two different towns – Kaptol which was inhabited mainly by the clergy, and which houses Zagreb Cathedral; and Gradec inhabited mainly by farmers and merchants. These two towns were united in 1851 by ban Josip Jelačić after whom the main city square is named. Tkalčićeva Street , today famous for its small historic houses featuring numerous bars, at that time was actually a creek.

In recent years Zagreb has become an appealing tourist destination so it is no surprise the city attracts more and more visitors every year. This has resulted in the opening of a number of hotels, hostels and private apartments, interesting restaurants, and lots of different activities .

Table of Contents

Below you’ll find the Zagreb map. Zagreb is located in continental Croatia (in the northwest of the country), on the shores of the River Sava, and at the southern slopes of the Medvednica mountain. Vienna (Austria) is 370 km away from Zagreb, Budapest (Hungary) 345 km, and Ljubljana (Slovenia) 140 km.

Croatia’s well-developed state roads and motorways connect Zagreb to other regions of Croatia. The distance from Zagreb to Rovinj is 260 km and it takes 2:30 hours of driving;  Split is 410 km away and a 4-hour drive, Dubrovnik is 600 km away and about 6 hour drive (depending on border crossing in Neum) while Osijek is 280 km and 3 hours of driving from Zagreb.

The best time to visit Zagreb

Whenever you visit Zagreb you will find something interesting to see and experience. But, the best time to visit Zagreb is in spring and early summer.

In early to mid-August, the temperature can be quite high and many locals do take their annual holidays at this time. You might find some of the local designers’ shops and bars closed during this period of the year.

Don’t forget that Zagreb can be very interesting in December when Christmas markets and activities take place in many of the city center’s squares.

Reasons to visit Zagreb

You won’t visit France without visiting Paris, or visit Italy, without visiting Rome. So, being the capital town should be enough reason to visit Zagreb, even if only for a day. However, there are more reasons to visit Zagreb, and you might even decide to stay longer there. Many times I have heard people saying how positively surprised they were with Zagreb, and how they wished to have stayed longer there.

Zagreb is an unassuming, cool, small, and easily walkable city with lots of parks, strong bar culture, and friendly locals. Below are a few other reasons to visit the town!

Experience continental Croatia

Croatia is most famous for its beautiful coast but why not experience something different? Zagreb is a small central European city so you can experience a part of the history of the Hapsburg monarchy without much walking.

Zagrebacki strukli and other yummy food

Zagrebacki strukli (cottage cheese strudel which can be cooked or baked, salty or sweet) is known as Zagreb’s signature dish, and it will keep you well-fed if you eat it as a main course for lunch or dinner. Other traditional dishes include duck with mlinci (a special kind of pasta), sir i vrhnje (cottage cheese with cream), krempite (custard cream slices) and orahnjaca (a traditional walnut roll).

Just to make sure there is no misunderstanding, we are not talking about wild parties. But there is something charming when you walk through Tkalčićeva street and the bars are full of people, or to have a glass of wine or beer on Stross (Upper Town).

Free Attractions

Dolac market , Mirogoj Cemetery, Upper town, Zagreb Cathedral… All of this and much more charge nothing for visiting and enjoying.

Visitors love it!

Tourists say that they love Zagreb because it is not expensive, the locals are friendly, the city is clean and all the city’s sights can easily be explored on foot or bicycle.

What to do in Zagreb

For a full list of things to do in Zagreb, head here . For a taste of things to do in Zagreb, stick here with us where we list just a couple of things to do in Zagreb.

Explore the Old Town

You can walk through the Upper town any time of day (but bear in mind that some of the attractions have their working hours).  From April until October every Saturday from 5 p.m. until 8 p.m. the main historical characters from Zagreb past walk by and you can have your photo taken with them. Catch the short funicular ride from Ilica up to the Old Town and definitely make your way back down through the only remaining gate from the Old Town, the Stone Gate .

Visit Dolac market and Mirogoj Cemetery

Dolac is the most visited and famous market in Zagreb located in the center of the City. It is vibrant, noisy, and lively, and the best place to feel a local vibe, and buy fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables, meat, and fish.

Mirogoj Cemetery is another location that tourists like to visit. It is a heritage site famous for its arcades, pavilions, and tombs which are real monuments of architecture.

Take a break in Zrinjevac

Zagreb’s most popular park is loved by locals and tourists alike. If you are tired of sightseeing just go to Zrinjevac and lie down on the grass. Don’t forget that from April until October every Saturday from 11 a.m. until 1 p.m. there are Promenade Concerts in Zrinjevac. You can also put on historical clothing and have your photo taken. During winter Zrinjevac has a wonderful entertainment program.

Have a coffee on Saturday morning

To have a coffee on Saturday morning in Zagreb is a custom of locals and a must-do thing. On the so-called Špica (the rush hour) all locals from different parts of the town come to the center of the city to drink coffee in one of the bars in Bogoviceva or Tkalciceva Street. Actually, anywhere in the center where you find a free table sit and observe a river of people. To truly fit in with the locals, dress well!

Get your fill of exercise in the park

For all of those who like to stay active, Zagreb has a few fitness parks in which you can exercise. You can visit the one in Maksimir Park and at the same time enjoy Zagreb’s oldest (opened in 1794) and largest public park. It’s also home to the town’s Zoo. Near the main Railway Station, there is also one fitness park and it is ideal for those who love to exercise in the open.

What to see in Zagreb, Croatia

The changing of the guard.

A march through Zagreb accompanied by the armorer, trumpeter, drummer, standard-bearer, and commander starts from May until October at the Main Square at 11:20 am and ends at 12:15 pm, every Saturday and Sunday, as well as 31 May ( City of Zagreb Day ), 18 October ( Cravat Regiment day ) and 1 January ( New Year’s Day ).

Experience the Upper Town through Dvorišta Event

Dvorišta is an event that particularly celebrates the Upper town. Dvorišta (Courtyards in Croatian) takes place in mid-July, for nine days. During this 9-day event, the owners of the Upper Town buildings, open their courtyards to the public. This way they offer visitors a chance to experience a part of the town that is usually shut behind facades, and doors.

The museum of Broken Relationships

Also situated in the Upper town this museum is everything but not ordinary. In the beginning, this idea to expose the relics of broken relationships was a traveling exhibition. But since 2011 one of the palaces of Zagreb’s Upper Town hosts a museum. It also has a coffee bar so you can have a break.

If you are into museums, check these 10 must-visit museums in Zagreb .

Lotrščak Tower and the Grič cannon

Enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of Zagreb from Lotrščak Tower and wait for noon when the Grič cannon fires as a sign for the bell-ringers of the city’s churches. This marking of midday is a tradition since 1877.

St Mark’s Church and the Cathedral

While you are walking through the Upper town be sure to take a photo outside of St Mark’s Church which is one of the oldest buildings in Zagreb. On the roof, tiles are laid so that they represent the coat of arms of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia, and Dalmatia.

Zagreb Cathedral , located close to the main square, is the tallest building in Croatia. It has many Gothic architectural elements.

Sunday Antique Fair on British Square

British Square is located only 10 minutes by foot from the main square. From Monday to Saturday, you can buy fruit and vegetables in this square. On Sunday it is reserved for an antique fair . Check various stands and when you get tired have brunch or just a coffee in Kava Tava.

Food and restaurants

If you ask the locals they will tell you that in the last few years Zagreb restaurant scene has genuinely improved. What we like the most is the fact that you don’t need to go to fancy restaurants to eat well . But if you want to, we recommend Carpaccio in Teslina, TheAthrium in Teslina, Nav in Masarykova, and Mano2 in Green Gold Center. There are places where you can eat great meals prepared in a quirky and modern way like Mali bar , Sol Tapas Bar, Rougemarin, Lari&Penati… all located in the center of the city.

If you would like to try a traditional Zagrebački štrukli, go to La Štruk (located on Skalinska Street) or hotel Esplanade near the main Railway station.

Hamburgers are in fashion again in Zagreb. There are a few good places where you can eat great hamburgers which is also great for those who travel on a low budget. Be sure to visit Yellow Submarine in Frankopanska and Papa’s in Tuskanac.

Broom 44 serves awesome vegetarian and vegan breakfasts and one of the best brunch in Zagreb , and quality coffee. A table is hard to get, though!

Accommodation

Zagreb offers a variety of accommodations suitable for every budget: hotels, hip, and cool hostels, and apartment rentals. Many of them are situated in the center of the city so sightseeing is easy. Prices are cheaper than along the coast. Daily rental for 2 starts from 40€. As a general rule of thumb, hotels are cheaper during the summer than in winter when they get lots of business travelers. Also, hotels are cheaper during the weekend than during the week (except during Advent in Zagreb ).

You can try some of the hostels like Swanky Mint Hostel in Ilica, Main Square Hostel, or private accommodations like IRUNDO which offers a few apartments at different locations in Zagreb’s center, and Design Studios Svi-Mi.

If you prefer a hotel, the most famous one is Esplanade which has hosted many Hollywood stars. Hotel Dubrovnik is situated in the main square and Hotel Jaegerhorn also has a unique position in the courtyard of a building on Ilica Street.

READ OUR FULL POST ON ACCOMMODATION IN ZAGREB.

Cafes and bars

In Croatia, drinking coffee is a ritual in itself. So when you are in Zagreb, experience a culture of sipping coffee for hours. You can always sit in any of the coffee bars on Tkalčićeva Street or in Cvjetni Square. However, if you want to escape from city noise, we recommend a few interesting places. If you are enjoying the Upper Town, don’t miss having a coffee in Palainovka on Ilirski Trg.

Velvet is a great little cafe bar and a gallery tucked away at the corner of Tuskanova and Dezmanova Street. In downtown, you will find Amelie which also offers cakes, quiche, and great ice-creams. U dvorištu (In the Courtyard) is located ten minutes on foot from the city center on Zerjavica Street; and it serves different types of coffee, varieties of tea, and all sorts of beer.

Remember that even if locals invite you for coffee it doesn’t necessarily mean you will actually drink a coffee – it is the invitation for hanging out.

In the Cheese Bar which is located at the main square and Wine Bar Bornstein near the Cathedral, you can drink a glass of wine and have a charcuterie platter (variety of sliced ham, prosciutto, and cheese with olive oil).

Popular events

Zagreb usually hosts a number of attractive concerts and exhibitions during the year. Be sure to check whether there is anything on at the time of your visit.

During summer in the Upper Town, you have Summer at Stross; a variety of shows for the kids, and a music program for adults.  Cafe de Matos takes place in the Upper Town in July and August. The program brings various live concerts, street bands, and stand-up comedians. Besides these two events in the Upper Town, there is also the Gradec Summer Cinema . Here you can watch movies for free at Catherine’s Square. If you come earlier you will probably catch a seat but if you don’t, just sit anywhere on the floor. Don’t worry – it’s normal, it is what gives this event a unique atmosphere!

Traveling to Zagreb

Zagreb is very well connected and can be reached by bus, plane, car, or even by train.

Zagreb International Airport is the main airport in Croatia. It connects the country with almost all bigger European cities Paris, Frankfurt, Rome, London, Istanbul, Munich, Zurich, Vienna, Brussels, Barcelona, Moscow, Athens as well as Doha and Dubai.

The Airport is situated 12 kilometers from the city center and you can get to town by taxi (the price is around 20 € – make sure to ask for the price before you sit in the taxi) or with the Airport’s shuttle which drives to the main bus station. The price of a one-way ticket is 6 €)and the ride lasts 30 minutes. From the main bus station, you can catch the tram (number 6) to the city center (the distance is five tram stations).

Motorway A3 Bregana – Zagreb – Lipovac connects Zagreb with Northern Europe. You can also come to Zagreb using the Istrian Ypsilon which connects Istria with the Slovenian border and Rijeka from which highway A6 leads you to Zagreb. In the East, there is motorway A4 which connects Croatia with Hungary. From January 1 st, 2023 Croatia is a part of Schengen so there are no border controls if you are entering the country from Slovenia or Hungary.

Zagreb bus station is situated only five tram stations from the center of the city or 20 minutes on foot. You can buy a ticket online and if you are going from Zagreb to any other city in Croatia the connections are really good.

Some of the international cities which are connected by bus with Zagreb are Vienna, Augsburg, Berlin, Bern, Brno, Duesseldorf, Florence, Venice, Verona, Frankfurt, Halmstad, Köln, Ljubljana, Milano, Maribor, München, Uppsala, Zürich…

If you are traveling from other cities in Croatia to Zagreb you can also reach the city by train (there are connections with Split and Osijek amongst the larger cities). Zagreb is also connected with other European countries like Austria, Germany, Slovenia, Serbia, Hungary, Bosnia , and Herzegovina. The train generally takes the longest to get from one point to another in Croatia. However, if you have time on your side and want a relaxing way to see the country, this might be the way to go.

Public transport

Zagreb is easy to navigate on foot, by bicycle, or by public transport. If you stay in the center of the city you can see all the main attractions on foot. If you find yourself outside of the center you can use a tram, bus, taxi, or bike.

There are a few different types of tram tickets. The cheapest ticket costs 0.53 € and it is valid for 30 minutes. The other two standard tickets cost 0.93 € or 1.33 € respectively, and last 60 or 90 minutes. At night time the price of this ticket is 1.99 €.

A daily ticket costs 3.98 € and you can ride as much as you like in any direction. The same conditions apply for 3-day tickets (9.29 €); 7-day tickets (19.91 €); 15-day tickets (26.54 €) and 30-day tickets (53.09 €).

You can buy a ticket at Tisak or iNovine kiosks or inside the tram from the driver. Tickets are more expensive if purchased on the tram. Rather buy them at any Tisak or iNovine kiosk in the town.

The same ticket can be used for the tram and the bus if the bus stations are in Zone 1, which most of the tourist destinations are. So if you buy a tram ticket you can use it also, for example, to visit Mirogoj Cemetery or to take a ride on the Funicular.

There are a few different taxi services in Zagreb (Cammeo, Radio Taxi Zagreb, Eko Taxi, UBER, and individual taxi drivers). You can order taxis by phone or you can find them parked in the different parts of town (taxis cannot pick you up in the street unless you have ordered one). In the city center, there are a lot of taxi stations (Gajeva Street, Petrnjiska Street, Mesnička Street, Masarykova Street, Vlaška Street…). For example, a ride from the main bus station to the center of the city will cost you around 4.5 €.

Cycling is also an interesting way to explore the city. In Zagreb, there is a system of public bicycles. So you can take a bike at one station and leave it at another. All information is available on the official web page of Nextbike but generally, it is easy to use. You just need to register yourself and activate an account by providing a valid credit card. Afterward, you just pay as you go. The price is 0.66 € per 30 minutes. You can also take a 7-day package, that provides you with the first 30 minutes of usage free of charge after which each additional 30 minutes costs 0.66 €, and depending on the length of your rides it reduces your next bike credit.

Car rental in Zagreb Croatia

In Zagreb, you’ll find all major international car rental providers like Hertz, Sixt, Avis, Europcar. Oryx and Nova are local car rental companies. They all have offices at the Zagreb Airport, and at various locations in town.

We use Rentalcars when booking a car in Croatia, and elsewhere. And we highly recommend using them. They offer very competitive prices, work with all major car rental companies, and provide super-easy online booking.

Frankaboutcroatia.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. This post might also contain affiliate links to other sites, like accommodation or activities. And if you purchase anything using these links, we earn a little commission with no extra costs for you. Thank you for supporting our blog! Read full disclaimer here.

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4 thoughts on “A Travel Guide To Zagreb Croatia”

Hi Frank Please can you give some advice about taking a bus from Trogir to Zagreb – is that possible? Our cruise ends in Trogir and we want to just catch a bus to Zagreb. We are going to hire a car at Zagreb when we arrive and drive down to the lakes for 3 nights and then via Zadar to Trogir for 2 nights before our cruise leaves.

Hi Linda, thanks for reading. Bus is definitely better option than train. Check flix bus. They have the most affordable prices, and you can book online.

Hi Frank and Vera: thank you very much for your informations. Can you please help me, my husband and I will celebrate our 27 anniversary in Croatia. We have 5 nights. We will stay at Zagreb but I want to visit Slovenia, too. Can you please give me suggestions.? What is the best way to travel from Zagreb to Ljubljana ? Would you recommend the bus or the train? Should I get the tickets beforehand or can I buy them the same day? We will be taking only a carry-on with us. Thank you so much for all your help. Linda

Hi Frank and Vera: I appreciate very much your guide and log and other sources of information about Croatia. They are outstanding and I have benefitted a great deal from them. In middle September I will be flying from the U.S. to Zagreb, visit the city for two days (solo), and then join a tour in Ljubljana. My question: What is the best way to travel from Zagreb to Ljubljana (on a Saturday)? Would you recommend the bus or the train? Should I get the tickets beforehand or can I buy them the same day? I will be taking only a carry-on with me. Thank you so much for all your help. Nidia

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The Ultimate Zagreb Travel Guide

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Exploring Zagreb Where to stay Where to eat How to get around

If you’re visiting Zagreb soon, you’ve come to the right place. After reading this guide, you’ll know which area to stay in, where to find the best restaurants and how to get around this bustling capital city in Croatia.

What to expect in Zagreb

For some reason, Zagreb is often overlooked in favour of more popular seaside destinations such as Split , Dubrovnik and Hvar .

Although you don’t need to spend a long time in Zagreb, it’s certainly worth some of your time. It’s a capital city that is rich in history, museums and great places to eat.

The Upper and Lower Town of the city boast colourful and narrow streets that lead onto extravagant plazas and churches. Couple this with Croatia’s spectacular cafe culture and you’ll quickly feel a part of this city.

Is Zagreb worth visiting?

As well as offering lots of things to do within Zagreb, it’s a good jumping-off point. From here you can take day trips to Plitvice National Park, and even Slovenia.

Zagreb may feel busier than some other Croatian cities, but this hustle and bustle is created by locals rather than tourists. Here you can see what daily life is really like in Croatia.

It’s also the only place to ride the shortest public railroad in the world – Zagreb’s funicular.

How long should you spend in Zagreb?

There are enough things to do in Zagreb to keep you busy for days.

However, Croatia has a lot to offer. Think of stunning beaches, islands and world-famous cities. It would be a shame to miss out on the other beautiful destinations while visiting Croatia.

That’s also one of the main reasons why a lot of visitors don’t spend too much time in the capital city. There is just too much to see in Croatia.

We recommend spending about 2-3 days in Zagreb, but it all depends on how long your holiday is.

To help you make the most of your time in the capital city of Croatia, we’ve put together a list of the top things to do in Zagreb.

Where to stay in Zagreb

Zagreb is the capital city of Croatia and has many neighbourhoods you can stay in, each offering something different to the next.

If you’re looking to explore the main sites, there are 3 great areas that we recommend:

Location #1: Lower Town — the best place for first-timers

Lower Town may be the best place to stay if it’s your first time in Zagreb. The district offers an eclectic mix of modern and old. Lower Town is the commercial centre of Zagreb and where you’ll find its shopping street.

There is lots of open space and plenty of parks to escape the city feel if you need to. It’s still brimming with history and could be considered the cultural epicentre of Zagreb.

Accommodation in Lower Town

This is where you’ll find most of Zagreb’s hotels. Another reason why Lower Town is the best place to stay for first-timers. You have plenty of choices when it comes to where to stay.

Private room prices start at around €30 per night.

Location #2: Upper Town — the historical hub of the city

Upper Town is where most tourists will spend their time. Also known as Old Town, it’s the historic centre of Zagreb. This is where the narrow cobblestone streets and historic sites can be found.

It’s also where you’ll find the best nightlife in Zagreb. At night those iconic cobblestone streets come to life as the abundance of bars start to fill up.

Accommodation in Upper Town

Because it’s the historical centre of Zagreb, there are fewer residential apartments and hotels here. This can make finding a place to stay in Upper Town harder or a bit more expensive.

Private rooms start at around €35 per night.

Location #3: Kaptol — the religious centre of Zagreb

Kaptol is a subsection of the Upper Town, found slightly to the north. This neighbourhood is the religious centre of Zagreb and where you’ll find the famous Zagreb Cathedral.

In this area, you’ll come across plenty of museums, art galleries and cafes. The best thing is that you’re only a few minutes from the main attractions but at a lower price than in the Upper Town.

Accommodation in Kaptol

Kaptol is slightly more commercial than Upper Town which means there are more apartment-style accommodations.

There are also more places to stay here, which makes it a cheaper area to stay in. Here you can find plenty of hotels, hostels, Airbnbs and apartments.

Similar to Lower Town, a private room starts here at around €30 per night.

Best places to eat in Zagreb

Zagreb is a capital city that is flourishing with cuisines and exciting flavours. As well as traditional Croatian food, you can find dishes from all over the world.

There are places for every budget too, from quick bites to fine dining.

With so many places to pick from, here are our 3 unmissable spots to eat in Zagreb:

Noel — the only Michelin Star restaurant in Zagreb

Noel is Zagreb’s only Michelin Star restaurant. If you’re looking for incredible, fine-dining food, this is the place to go. Noel offers two 6-course menus, one vegetarian and the other titled ‘The Chef Experience’.

The restaurant serves a brilliant combination of traditional Croatian cuisine and modern flavours. All of this is done with local and seasonal ingredients. It comes at a price, but it’s completely worth the experience.

Soi Fusion — the best Asian food in Zagreb

You may not have come to Croatia for Asian food, but Soi Fusion is somewhere you have to try before you leave Zagreb. Serving dishes from all over Asia, you’ll find gyozas, ramen, curries, poke and buns on the menu.

After one visit you will want to come back for more. The ambience is fantastic and the prices are affordable.

La Štruk — try the traditional Croatian dish, Štrukli 

Following on with something a little more Croatian. La Štruk serves only the traditional Croatian dish, Štrukli. It’s a dish mainly found in Hrvatsko Zagorje and Zagreb, so where better to try it?

Štrukli is made from a special dough that is either boiled or baked. Inside there’s a delicious helping of cheese and other fillings. This is definitely the place to get a traditional taste of Croatia.

How to get around in Zagreb

Zagreb has an extensive and efficient transport system, making it an easy city to explore. There are plenty of options, all of which are cheap to use.

Here are your ways to get around Zagreb:

Zagreb is very much a pedestrianised city, especially the centre. You’ll find that Lower and Upper Town are free of cars and perfect for walking through.

You may need transportation to connect you to the different areas. Although the walk between Upper and Lower Town is only 20 minutes.

Once you’re in the centre, your own two feet are all that you’ll need.

By tram 

Zagreb’s tram system has been operating since 1891. However, back in the day, they looked slightly different. The iconic blue trams were pulled by horses.

In 1920, Zagreb got its first electric trams. Nowadays,15 tram lines are covering over 117 km.

The trams add to the charm of the city, whilst being an efficient way to get around. All trams are marked by a number on the front, rear and side of the tram, so they’re easy to use and impossible to miss!

Buying a tram ticket in Zagreb

To make it easier, the ticket system is the same for the tram, bus and funicular.

You’ve got lots of options when it comes to buying a ticket:

• One-way ticket: €0.50 ($0.60) – €1.30 ($1.40) – valid for 30-90 minutes. These can be bought on the tram or from a ticket kiosk.
• Day ticket: €3.90 ($4.30)
• 3-day ticket: €9.20 ($10)
• 7-day ticket : €19.60 ($21)

Just like the tram lines, Zagreb isn’t short on bus lines. They have 134! That means you can get almost everywhere using the bus.

The ticket system is the same as for the tram which we explained above.

There are plenty of taxis roaming around Zagreb. Luckily, a few years ago the number of taxi licences available increased.

This increased competition and reduced prices. The average rate is around €0.80 ($0.90) per kilometre for traditional taxis.

Bolt holds the crown for the cheapest rate, so we would recommend using them.

Now that you’ve finished reading this guide, you’re almost ready for your adventure in Zagreb. The next step is to create your personalised itinerary with our top picks of things to do in Zagreb . Simply choose your favourite activities and places to visit, and you’re all set to make lasting memories in Zagreb.

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Kate is a writer, (ex)Management Consultant and avid traveller. She recently returned from a 2-year career break exploring the world and decided corporate life wasn’t for her. She’ll soon be testing life as a digital nomad. She’s visited over 40 countries and fell in love with Latin America in particular. Her travelling has inspired a passion for yoga, salsa, hiking and Spanish.

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Fears for future of ski tourism as resorts adapt to thawing snow season

While some embrace technological innovations, others are forced to close as global heating causes lack of snowfall

S itting at his window in Västerås, central Sweden, Thomas Ohlander is wondering when the winter season might start for his outdoor adventure business, Do The North . “To schedule a trip we have to be sure of snow,” he says, “And that start date is going backwards at a crazy speed.”

Each year, Ohlander’s local ice-skating club has recorded the first date on which its members managed to get out on the frozen lakes. In 1988, that date was 4 November; this year the prediction is 4 December.

All over Europe alarm bells are ringing over the state of winter snow sports and fears for the future. In France, the ski resorts of Alpe du Grand Serre and Grand Puy have announced they will not open for this coming winter season, adding to a growing tally: 180 since the 1970s, according to geographer Pierre Alexandre Metral of Grenoble University.

Alpe du Grand Serre’s closure was blamed on a lack of funds to become a year-round destination as the snow season shrinks, while Grand Puy is shutting its slopes due to a lack of regular snowfall leading to a drop in visitors and an annual loss of hundreds of thousands of euros, according to the local town hall.

The pattern of decline is now well established: as snow lines and glaciers retreat, lower-level resorts are forced to make difficult economic decisions and many call it a day. In Spain’s Sierra Guadarrama the bulldozers have moved in on the Club Alpino, opened in the late 1940s, and now regularly snow-free.

The situation is repeated worldwide: a recent study estimated that of the 21 locations that hosted past Winter Olympics, only one could manage it by the end of the century (Sapporo). Beijing in 2022 was completely run on artificial snow. The assessment of Johan Eliasch, president of the International Ski and Snowboard Federation, is that the ski industry is facing an existential crisis.

Richard Sinclair, CEO at Sno, one of Britain’s largest ski holiday providers, agrees and sees the vulnerability of smaller, lower level resorts having an effect on customers. “The demand is for ‘snow surety’, and that means more demand for higher altitude resorts like Valle Thorens and certain countries, especially the US and Canada.”

Sinclair’s worry is that a process of ski democratisation that began in the 1980s could now be reversed. “I don’t want to see skiing become the preserve of the rich again, or travel more generally. Decarbonisation and sustainability have to be the way forward.”

And that is where some analysts believe there is hope. German winter sports consultant Karl-Christoph Schrahe, points to recent innovations like the use of snow-making machinery to recapture lost heat and even create electricity. “The water flow in the pipes that feed the snow cannon is reversed into a turbine.”

Those snow cannon are now a feature of all big European resorts and the only way that some lower altitude places can survive. Schrahe worked on a study in the German ski area of Sauerland. With a maximum elevation of 843 metres, this should be a ski area on the brink of collapse. Instead, it is thriving.

Catering mainly for local and Dutch skiers, Sauerland uses over half a million cubic metres of water to create snow. While that artificial snow can be seen as a climate negative, Schrahe points to a bigger picture. “Economically it can work. In Germany, no additives are allowed, so it’s clean water. That water is not lost, it returns to the ecosystem. Resorts are using renewable energy. You get rural jobs and a big return on the investment.”

At one lodge, Schneewittchen, the heat from snow machines helps warm the building. Other lodges have installed solar and hydro power plants.

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The economic rationale behind snow-making has also been accepted in Slovenia. “It works,” says Matej Kandare, director of the Slovenia Outdoor Association. “We calculate that every euro spent generates six in the wider economy.”

But the country has also taken broader measures. “We are investing in the summer activities: gastronomy, cycling and hiking. With the income generated by summer and winter activities combined, we believe our 11 major ski centres will survive.”

Not everyone is convinced. A report by Legambiente, the Italian environmental group, points out that 90% of Italian resorts are now dependent on a vast, unwieldy and expensive system of artificial snow production that will not cope with rising temperatures. “It’s not a sustainable practice,” says co-president, Vanda Bonardo. “It is bad for the environment and a waste of public money. It’s time to think about a new model of winter tourism.”

Back in Sweden, Ohlander believes innovation is not just about equipment and technical advances. “We try to bring something new every year – to never stand still.”

For this winter he is planning a totally different expedition. On the map he points to a remote area on the Norwegian border. “Up there Sweden has a small herd of musk ox that are rarely ever sighted. It’ll take a week to ski in, pulling everything we need on sleds, then search for them.

“What we must remember is that winter and skiing is about being out in nature and exploring. That’s why we love it.”

• Ski resorts
• Sustainable development
• Winter sports holidays
• Adventure travel
• Skiing holidays

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