trek 8500 preis

A note about Trek road bike model numbers: in general, higher model numbers mean higher original prices. This is especially true of models within a particular year.

1993+ RETAIL PRICES FOR TREKS

Suggested retail prices for Treks from 1993 to current are included in the specifications at BikePedia.com . These are listed under "Sugg Retail" for each bike. This database is a great resource.

The Trek Bike Archives , covering 2003 and newer Treks, also contains suggested retail prices.

LISTING OF TREK RETAIL PRICES BY MODEL AND YEAR

Visitors to this site have submitted the following pricing information for various Trek models at the time they were new. The prices are a combination of list prices and selling prices. (If you have any pricing on Trek steel road bike models, please send it along so it can be added here.)

WHAT IS MY USED TREK WORTH? (If "PRICELESS!" is not sufficiently accurate for you.)

eBay.com is the best practical guide. It can tell you what similar bikes recently sold for on eBay. Try search/ advanced search/ check "completed items only". This way, you get the final prices paid. Search for words like "Trek road" with words to exclude "aluminum carbon". You also can search more specifically, such as for "Trek 400". You might need to try for a few weeks to find a bike similar to yours, if it is not a common model.

To compare a local sale to an eBay sale, you should add the cost of shipping to the eBay price. A low value bike can be hard to sell on eBay for top dollar if the bike is to be shipped, as that can add $50 or more to the price.

Craigslist.org can provide some information about current prices. However, these are asking prices, not the actual price for which the bike was sold. One can search by region on the Craigslist.org site. One can search for an item on Craigslist overall (not just by region). Use a search engine (Google or Yahoo etc.) and include "Craigslist" as the first keyword. Follow this by what you are looking for. For example "Craigslist Trek 760".

A very rough measure of current selling price is to multiply the original selling price by a percentage. See the price information above for prices of many Treks when new. For bikes 1976 to about 1983, one can use a range of 40% to 70% for a bike. For bikes from about 1984 to 1990, one can use 33% to 50% of the original selling price. This is for bikes with good to excellent paint and in good to excellent overall condition. Condition is very important. A bike in mint condition will sell well above these ranges, perhaps at or above the original price when new. A bike in poor condition, especially one with significant rust inside and out, has little value.

The percentage for selling frames is higher than for bikes because the frames are less outdated than old components. For frames 1976 to 1983, one can use a range of 40% to 100%. For frames from about 1984 to 1990, one can use 33% to 80% of the original selling price. This is for frames in good to excellent overall condition.

The bike values above are useful only if the potential buyer is a person who appreciates a vintage lightweight or specifically, a vintage Trek. A vintage road bike offered at a garage sale might never be sold, even for a ridiculously low price, because it is unlikely the right buyer will come along. See Selling Suggestions for help in finding the right buyer.

Value can vary by season . Road bikes typically sell for more money and more quickly in the Spring and early Summer. An exception is for local sales in regions that don't have cold or rainy Fall and Winter seasons. Another exception is high end collector bikes, which tend to be season independent.

SMALL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT BIKES SELL FOR LESS?

Smaller vintage road frames/bikes often do not sell for as much as a larger version of the same frame. This is true of the 21” (54cm) size and especially the 19” (48cm) frames. Nineteen inch frames/bikes can sell at a discount of up to 40% over their larger brethren. The lesser value is easily demonstrated; for example, by looking at eBay selling prices. (An exception to this general rule is for classic French and Italian bikes, which are highly valued by [older] Japanese collectors.)

Why would this be? Certainly Trek sold bikes of these sizes to willing buyers in the late 1970s and early to mid 1980s at the same price as for larger bikes. There must have been the right number of smaller men, women and kids to buy them. Are Americans that much bigger now? A recent scientific study says no. Certainly most kids, as they grow up and need larger bikes, will pass through these size ranges.

I believe older bikes are bought and kept by people interested in fixing or working on them. These owners need a bit of expertise to get the bikes properly back on the road or keep them on the road (or even just to keep them in a collection). It also takes effort and knowledge to locate replacement parts. New riders tend to buy new bikes and only slowly (if at all) learn how to repair them. For parents to buy a used bike for their (smaller) children, requires that the parents be bike savvy, which eliminates lots of potential small bike users. Bike repair and maintenance generally do not interest women (there are major exceptions to this rule), who are a major fraction of people who would use the smaller bikes.

Even if a person wanted to have a shop maintain their classic Nuovo Record, Super Record, or SunTour Superbe-equipped bike, the shops with that knowledge are rare and the parts cannot be bought from their typical suppliers.

The good news, for those of us built close to the ground, is that we can buy vintage lightweight bikes at favorable prices.

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Trek 8500 2003 Technical specs and features

General specs of trek 8500 bicycle, wheels and breaking system, frame and body specifications, gearing specs, trek 8500 fork system data, other specs of trek 8500, trek 8500 picture, 8500 bike comparison.

Trek 8500 VS VooDoo Wanga (28)

Trek 8500 VS Dean Colonel Elite SID SL

Trek 8500 VS VooDoo Hoodoo XTR/ESP/Jett C

Trek 8500 VS VooDoo D-Jab (30)

Trek 8500 bike review

Trek produced the 8500 bike in 2003 and can be classified as a Mountain bike bicycle, this exact model costs in american market arround $1,649.99. 8500 bike is available in many sizes such as 15.5 (inches), 17.5 (inches), 19.5 (inches) and 21.5 (inches). Trek Mountain bike 8500 can be found in a few colors, among these colors Trek Red and Platinum Silver . This bike is equiped with 26 x 1.95" Bontrager Super X Tubeless tires and Stainless steel spoke wheel while the rims are manufactured by Bontrager Race Tubeless, 24-hole/28-hole. Trek equiped this exact model with Avid Single Digit 5 brakes, Shimano Deore XT levers braking system and Bontrager Race hubs. To guarantee the comfiest ride Trek used Aluminum material for the frame. Bontrager Race high strength material is used on the handlebar of this 8500 to ensure the perfect handling while the stems are made of Bontrager Race. For the smoothest biking experience Bontrager Race, 22/32/44 teeth is used on this bicycle linked to 1/2 x 3/32" chain that is easily replaceable as stated by Trek , the whole system is connected to a high reliability Shimano Deore XT RapidFire gear shift levers.

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• Rider Notes

2009 Trek 8500

A 26″ aluminum frame crosscountry bike with high-end components.

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

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Trek 8500 ?????

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Does anyone out there have an older 8500 SL? I found a used one that I am looking at getting for my girlfriend and I was wondering if anyone had any comments good or bad about the bike. I read the reviews on the '04 and everyone seems to love the bike. I looked at one at the LBS and looks like a great bike. Have there been any significant changes with the frames over the last few years? Anything in particular I should check over before I purchase the bike? The frame is suppose to be a couple years old and an 8500SL. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bob  

bob24250 said: Does anyone out there have an older 8500 SL? I found a used one that I am looking at getting for my girlfriend and I was wondering if anyone had any comments good or bad about the bike. I read the reviews on the '04 and everyone seems to love the bike. I looked at one at the LBS and looks like a great bike. Have there been any significant changes with the frames over the last few years? Anything in particular I should check over before I purchase the bike? The frame is suppose to be a couple years old and an 8500SL. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bob Click to expand...

8500 sl what year is the frame?, the fact that you said "sl" makes me think its the older sl aluminum, which in my experiance, rides really nice, i had an 02 6700 with an slr frame. claimed weight of 3.6 lbs. the newer zr9000 allow claims somewhere around 3.2 lbs. and the 9.8 oclv frame claims somewhere near 3.0 lbs. all have the same geometry. i really like the handling of my old 6700, and the ride alltogether, if it is a slr frame, im betting its the same... hope that helps.  

careful... the 04' 8500 is a different beast than those of yesteryear. This year's 8500 comes with a fox fork and XT all around with discs. it's got a lot of nice components on it - better than previous ones in my opinion. -don  

How old are we talking here? I had a 8500SL that cracked where the rear chain stay meets the bottom bracket. It was replaced by Trek with a 8900SL. I think the year was 98-99 but I am not sure; I do remember that it was a common problem though because the replacement 8900SL had a reinforced wield in the area that the previous frame failed. I still have the 8900SL with no problems to date.  

NJFUELGUY said: How old are we talking here? I had a 8500SL that cracked where the rear chain stay meets the bottom bracket. It was replaced by Trek with a 8900SL. I think the year was 98-99 but I am not sure; I do remember that it was a common problem though because the replacement 8900SL had a reinforced wield in the area that the previous frame failed. I still have the 8900SL with no problems to date. Click to expand...

Thanks for the help Thanks for the help. I picked the bike up last night. It looks good. I checked the welds at the BB and the Chain Stays...looks good. The frame is the older model, not the ZR9000. It is bright orange. Came with a great component spec XT-XTR. Just need to put the standard cables, brake pads and tires on her and ready to ride. Thanks, Bob  

bob24250 said: Thanks for the help. I picked the bike up last night. It looks good. I checked the welds at the BB and the Chain Stays...looks good. The frame is the older model, not the ZR9000. It is bright orange. Came with a great component spec XT-XTR. Just need to put the standard cables, brake pads and tires on her and ready to ride. Thanks, Bob Click to expand...

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Trek 1999 8500 LT Hardtail Bike

1999 Trek 8500 LT, mountain bike, front suspension, Mountain Mix components, Rock Shox Judy C, 4.0" travel fork

• USER REVIEWS

goes like a rocket and then some.

seatpost,hate it.

seriosly good bike,i have had some problems with the fork and the brakes and i hate the seatpost but it is loads of fun to ride what more can you ask?

Similar Products Used:

other hardtails

Judy 100, frame, Hayes brake.

front tire.

This bike is great and a real pleasure to ride. My only complaint is the front tire easily loses lateral traction in sand on tight turns and the steering at speed is less accurate than other bikes I've tried. I was shopping for a full suspension, but the combination of the Judy 100 and the Rock Shox seatpost makes for a plush hardtail.

Specialized Stumpjumper, Gary Fisher Ziggurat, Giant XTC2,

The judy 100 is great, and the tires are sweet, I also think the bike is light and it climbs nicely.

the rear breake!!! you just have to change it for a hayes disk and it is perfect. Also the handelbar rise is a little to much I change it to a Icon ernie and now its even perfect for a race!

Great bike for the price, it has great componets and it kiks ass in downhill as well aa in all-around riding in any condition. It handels perfectly in the mud. SWEET DEAL

Mongoose, Trek 9000 and cannondale f900

judy 100's, hayes brake up front, stiff & light frame

cranks, stem

It's a good bike and I got it at a smoking deal, 1000 bucks which I was happy about. I wasn't a big fan of Rock Shox suspension seat post but everyone has their own personal preference. The Judy 100's have been great for me especially since I put speed springs in them, I had to put them in since the 100's were a little too plush for me. I do a lot of free riding, dirt jumping, downhill with this bike and it has held up really well seeing that most people use this bike for cross country. The only problems I've had with this bike is the crankset and I just ordered a new one since I'm not a big fan of Icon.

Fisher bikes

An overall good package for a hardtail. Nice Rock Shox seat post. Front Disk is sweet. Light and responsive

I think there is a bit of flex in the front shock.

I'm pumped that I got this bike. I was looking for a cool looking, reasonably priced hardtail with at least a front disk. There aren't that many out there. I thought about the Cannondale, but the price was out of site. I got a great deal and walked away with the bike for $1,100. I didn't think that was bad given the quality of the components! Do yourself a favor and go test ride one TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My brother's Trek VRX400 Various Cannondales w/ the Lefty shock!

Good stiff/light frame while it is in one piece

Here is the whole story(this letter was e-mailed to all Trek depts. 2 weeks ago....no reply yet): Dear Trek Bicycles:I am taking the time to write this letter to inform you about some quality issues I have discovered in your frame making process. My first mountain bike was a 1995 Trek 850 (Steel). I rode this bike and had tons of fun with it until the frame broke in May 1998. The frame broke on the rear weld of the chainstay. 4 years seems pretty reasonable considering what the bike went through in that time. Unfortunately my experience gets worse. When the frame was warranted I decided to upgrade to a better frame and bike. I ended up getting a 1998 Trek 8000SL . I was told by a Trek rep that was in International Bicycle Center in Newton, MA (very big Trek dealer) that this bike was “Bomb-Proof”. 600 miles later this was not the case…..the frame broke at the weld between the chainstay and the bottom bracket and I had to walk 3 miles out. After 600 miles of trails on this bike I had developed a relationship with this bike so this was a sad day. I did not want to go long without a bike so I immediately called International Bicycle Center in Brighton, MA and they had a 1998 19.5” 8500 frame in stock (lucky me). This time when I started riding my new frame I was not gleaming with confidence. Especially after the sales person told me they have seen many broken Al Treks. Riding this frame was scary because I was nervous it was going to break at a bad time. 250 miles later the frame cracked in the same exact spot!!!! That evening I went into Bay Road Bikes in South Hamilton, MA. Aaron (Co-owner) took the time to listen to my story and calm me down. I told him I would never get on a Trek again in my life. Because of the cost of not using the warrantee…I was forced to get another Trek! I should have this in Wed. July 28th. Hitting the trail with this frame I am sure there will be no “warm fuzzy feeling”. Being the trail with this bike will just be a trial of when it breaks. I ride with several groups in the Boston area (www.nemba.org and www.ragemtb.com ) and many people know my story. Many of these people want to know why these frames keep breaking. One thing I did notice on several other Al frames (Cannondale, Gary Fisher…etc) is that they all have a reinforcement bar in the bottom of the triangles (inside chainstay). This letter will be published to all my local riding groups and to any relevant sites on the internet (www.mtbr.com). Any feedback I receive from Trek will be published and addended to my postings. If there is no response…that will also be posted. My friends and I would like to know why we should consider/continue to ride Trek bikes.I feel 2 weeks is a reasonable time to allow to hear back from you in regards to this matter. Update: I got my new frame and there is a gusset where it kept breaking...I guess it won't break there again. Michael J. Duval [email protected]

Same product again and again

The frame, front disk and judy 100 was great.

The back brake wasn't the best and the Lx parts sucked.

The bottom line is that this bike was the best I had tried out of all these bikes. I would given it a perfect ten.

Trek 9.9, 9.8, 8900 Specialized stumpjumpers and FSR's Gary fisher super caliber and mt. tam Klien attitude race, mantra race and androit race

Super Good Frame, Upgraded to hydro discs front and rear(AWESOME)

Dont keep the Judy 100's. I was only 145lbs at the time and I destroyed them in 2 months.

I have raced this bike 20 times or so and the only thing that has ever broken is the forks(but as you can see i changed them to Marzochhi's...recomend doing that). Very nice frame but the bike is a tad heavy for racing. Very good acceleration and descending capabilities. Fell from 6 feet broad side on a tree and only lost a little paint in the incident. Whoever says the frame is week must have hit a brick wall at 100miles an hour. Anyway i give it five flamin' chillis. Unbelievable bike. Dont spen anymore that $1400US on a bike cause this will kick any freeride bikes ass.

Spec'd hydraulic front disc brake. Rear disc tabs and hub make upgrade to dual discs very affordable. Most Icon products held up well (except cranks). LX/XT drivetrain works well for non-competitive riding.

Still not sure about the suspension post. May try a lighter-weight rigid post. The Judy 100 fork was good for the first year, but completely crapped out thereafter. Bent the crank-spider and trashed the chain-rings, but that was mostly due to hard riding. Upgrading to a rear disc was definitely the way to go.

This bike has held up very well over the past 2 years plus of fairly heavy riding by a 195 lb. rider. The Judy 100 fork however, is not a good fork for any sort of extended abusive riding. There was also the issue of adjustablity of the fork. Marzocchi is a much better option if you have the cash to upgrade. I've raced this bike a handful of times and found that it is a bit heavy for this use, but performs extremely well on any sort of technical terrain. The jury's still out on the suspension post. If you listen to the stupid magazines, suspension posts are no longer cool, but it hasn't bothered me enough to go back to rigid. The longer travel for will affect climbing because of a more relaxed head angle, but I have gotten used to it, and the ECC on the Marzocchi fork has helped with this. Overall, a great bike that's fun to ride.

1996 Gary Fisher Tassajara - Replaced everything except the frame before buying the 8500LT in late '98.

Light, fast, plush, good parts spec.

Light, weak frame, weak rims, weak tires.

This bike is nice. My bike has the dual LX v-brakes, so there's not as much all-weather braking, but the performance of the bike improves when 1.) you don't have to worry about clipping in and/or out in sticky situations, and 2.) you don't have to worry about getting mud and/or rocks in your face while you're riding in the mud (which there is a lot of around here). Bottom line is that if you can get this bike for under $1000 like I did, do so. It's a deal. But it's not a DH or even a DS bike. It's just a bike, so treat it like one and it won't break.

Azonic DS-1 (only thing close that I've tried)

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Loved the world over, the Marlin has long held the hearts of new riders and seasoned rippers alike, and to keep everyone rolling with ear-to-ear grins we’ve revamped it with more trail confidence than ever. Whether zipping through town, dipping your toes into the trail for the first time or slicing through switchbacks as a well-seasoned rider, you’ll appreciate the sleek new frame that ups the capability and brings looks to match. There’s a reason why it’s always been your favourite.

Total trail confidence A bike's geometry is the defining framework it's built on, and the Marlin is a true mountain bike at it's core. Its measurements are perfectly dialled to give you a confidence-inspiring, planted feel when you’re rolling down steep and bumpy trails, while keeping it easy to pedal back to the top when you’re ready for another lap.

Marlin’s head tube (a) sits at a slacker (more acute) angle. The slacker head tube angle (b) moves your front wheel further in front of you. Take it to the trail, and this slacker head tube angle (b) boosts stability and control for confidence when descents get steep and rowdy.

To balance a slacker head tube angle (b) , the Marlin features a steeper (more upright) seat tube angle (d) . A steeper seat tube (c) lets you get the most out of every pedal stroke, so you don’t waste power on the climb to the top.

The Marlin is equipped with a short stem and wider handlebar for more direct control and responsiveness when you’re manoeuvring through rocks and roots. Meanwhile, a longer reach (e) gives you extra stability so you can ride faster and more confidently.

Secure your ride

A new Thru-Skew axle provides better rear wheel security, holding your wheel in place snugly and ensuring it doesn't slip out of the frame, even when you're rolling through rough-and-tumble terrain.

Fully guarded

Full-length, full-coverage guards on the chainstay protect your frame and keep your ride quiet.

Float on the trail

Big 2.4˝ tyres elevate traction, so you stay planted on dusty switchbacks. But not only do bigger tyres give you more grip — they also soak up bumps for a smoother ride.

Upgrade ready

With a frame this nice, you won’t want to part ways with your Marlin as your skills grow. The Marlin Gen 3 is upgrade-ready, so you can upgrade your bike when you upgrade your skills. New internal cable routing lets you install a dropper post – and sizes XS and up can be upgraded to a bigger 120 mm fork when you’re ready to take on bigger trails.

A bike for everyone We believe that every rider deserves a well-fitted bike, that’s why the Marlin is available in every size from XXS to XXL – and even an 'extra-medium' size for riders who fall in between a medium and large. Each size is tuned to its riders, with Smart Wheel Sizing that scales the wheel size with the bike size, so every rider has comfortable standover height. Smaller, XXS and XS frames also feature a curved top tube to boost confidence and make getting on and off a breeze.

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Make Marlin yours Whether you’re regularly ripping up the trail or a rugged city commuter, your Marlin can be fully customised with a treasure-trove of accessories. From kickstands and grips to bottle cages and bags, you can turn your Marlin into the perfect bike for your everyday ride.

• Deck out your Marlin

Trek warranty and backing We believe that when you put your heart and soul into something, you should have the stomach to back it up. That’s why we stand behind all Trek bikes with a limited-lifetime warranty. From your first ride to your 500th, we’ll be here for you in the unlikely event that something goes wrong with your Marlin. All you have to do is pop into your local Trek retailer and you’ll find all the support you need to get back spinning in no time.

The Marlin family Both generations of Marlins are true mountain bikes aimed at the rider who wants a versatile hardtail capable of off-road singletrack or in-city missions. Both generations have a 100 mm travel suspension fork and 29” wheels on most sizes except for smaller sizes with proportionate suspension travel and wheels, thus making it a great bike for shorter riders as well.

Marlin Gen 2

Get all-around versatility on Marlin Gen 2. It fits up to 2.2˝ tyres, and features balanced, neutral geometry that keeps you comfortable and in control as you venture off-road.

Marlin Gen 3

Get serious trail capability with Marlin Gen 3’s bigger, 2.4˝ tyre clearance, internal dropper post routing and a stiffer, more secure ThruSkew rear axle. Plus, its updated longer, slacker geometry gives you a boost in stability on steeper trails and at higher speeds.

Looking for something more to fill your singletrack appetite?

If you’re itching for a lighter weight, even faster hardtail, the X-Caliber is your ride. It’s light, sleek and efficient – perfect for new riders, cross-country racers and anyone who wants to cover a lot more trail miles in a lot less time.

The Roscoe delivers the capability of a full suspension trail bike in a simple hardtail package. The laid-back geometry that gives you tons of stability on rowdier trails, and it rolls on big 2.6˝ tyres that give tons of traction for getting through rough and tricky sections of trail.

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